Ok my video was not very fixed but the wobble were real and when i returned it to the dealer i tested in front of him and he refunded me. 4000 euros for that....not for me...and what's more an MIM (i passed the order in december 2020 when the product was still in japan and i received it in june 2020)...
Gotcha, but the point remains ..That by having those dots, Technics makes it nearly impossible to cast, paint, sand, then polish a platter that is 100% free of visual blemishes.
Again? ..I'm only aware of Technics having a 1200 GAE (2016?), then the G, then the 1210GAE. ..So what is a GEG-S?
Yeah those molds will never be 100% perfect, but they could improve the consistency by ordering a few molds and select the best 30% of them. Similar to what Grado does with their MI carts; those hand wound coils in their cartridges aren't 100% perfect either, so they select the best ones for their top model.
Platines vinyles haute-fidélité Platines Vinyl Haute Fidélité It's what it call those G perhaps in Europe... But you're right : GEG-S = G I suppose "S" for Silver Because the black is GEG-K
The suffixes after the initial G I think may indicate the region for sale while the -S refers to the colour, silver in this case while black models have a K suffix (yes, I realise that the 10 in 1210 refers to black for the turntables). Other products within the Technics range don't have a different numbering scheme for the black models, only the turntables do. For example, the SL-G700 Grand Class Audio Player has the same model number irrespective of it being black or silver. The label on the box will have an extended model number that includes the colour designator and the intended region for sale. A bit like how Panasonic's televisions had a differing prefix that indicated the region for sale. e.g. TU, TH, TX, etc.
So the old one has 0 runout? Unlikely And the G ~15/1000? That is within tolerance and not visible to the eye. How did you measure it after you returned it? You did that at the dealers? You took both TT's there? And the 0 pointer never moved?
Don't look at the yellow pointer. I start with the arrow on 0 at the dial. I bought my SL in 1989 Not 0 but 0.14mm. I turned about 6-7 times to be sure before i rent a car and goes back to Paris (278 miles)... I saw it was wobble before i played the first record. You know , if the dealer has refunded me at the same price, my estimation was founded... 0.32mm is visible
I used this tool (cheap but very solid) : And this tool : With this method (it's not me on the video but the way i had proceed) It was not so easy to insert the crimp sleeve So i do this with my Old SL :
I don't think it's a mold issue, rather the metal shrinking and moving as it cools, and potential stress movement after.
I'm sorry but i don't understand. In my tool, one full turn is 1mm (0.04") So if i read well, 32 is 0.32mm
Update - I received my replacement deck, which I'm keeping. Much happier with the platter - minimal deviation with my spindle spirit level and the wobble issues are no longer an issue here. The mat isn't properly round, once again, but it doesn't matter. Sub platter is a bit rough and ready - looks like it was trimmed by hand - but not going to worry about that. Rest of deck is finished nicely. I have set up with AT-LH11H headshell and AT-OC9XML cartridge. Sounds pretty good even though I only have an hour on it. The cart cleared the +16db bias track on the HFN&RR test record straight out of the box and only got some mild buzz in left hand channel on the +18db torture track so certainly impressed with that. Can anyone, except the two posters I had to block, kindly recommend a good after-market mat, bearing in mind I'm in the UK? I've decided to spring for one because the cart is still slightly tail up even at VTA 0 setting. Funk Firm Achromat and Oyaide are two I've seen mentioned here? Any others to consider? Cheers
I am happy with the Oyaide. It adds 2 mm compared to the stock mat. It should be used with a weight/clamp though.