The Technics SL-1200 GAE/G/GR general questions thread

Yeah there is nothing wrong with a VM95SH, I have a VM95ML that I use on my GR, but I also have a VM740ML and that gets way more play as it brings a lot more to the table soundwise.
Endgame for you may very well be the 750SH, if the differences are as pronounced as the ML version.

 

Flickr can be a pain, it shows your image is public. But I remember having this issue before, if you click to other resolutions (lower right hand corner download link arrow) and open in a new window, use that link. The link Flickr provides sometimes doesn’t work cause of https.

I used the original res image to post and it worked.

 

Thanks for helping me out.
Side note : that Ikea butcher block underneath the deck really looks like...well let's just say I'll put it back in the kitchen

 

Thanks for the feedback.
My partner upgraded last week from an old Dual to a Rega P8 fitted with the 750SH. Incredible looking machine and very pretty cart.

 

That's not too far off from mine: J248.

 

Well yours is from the original batch of 300 released for the Japan market if I'm not mistaken
Mine doesn't have the J, its number reads 0397 :-(

 

There’s absolutely nothing wrong with your approach. I rather run a more basic cartridge on a really nice table than the other way around.

 

Merry Christmas to you. GAE is quite the turntable to get that kind of price on. Please accept my congratulations that is also filled with a hunk of envy.
I have a 1500C and have been trying different cartridges with it. My path went 95ML, 95SH, 750SH and most recently to a AT33Sa. The 750SH made me very happy. I only went to the AT33Sa because I wanted to hear a moving coil cartridge for myself. It doesn't suck and I'm glad I made the effort.
If you can afford to make the 750SH your daily driver I think you'll be quite happy it. Enjoy!

 

Thanks for your kind words.
As far as I'm concerned the 1500C is a superb deck. It sometimes gets a bad rep because some people like to piss on its integrated phono preamp (or whatever, people always find something to piss on anyway), but truth is that thing sings straight out of the box with the stock 2M Red. And if you want to turn it into a very serious deck, you have the liberty to easily do so.
And the way it looks, jeez. It's so pure & elegantly understated. To me, without a doubt the best looking Technics deck ever made.
I put it up for sale but I'm sad to see it go. I'm actually trying to get money some other way so I can gift the 1500C to my dad, that way I'll still enjoy it once in a while.

 

Is it OK to be "lazy" and seek some ballpark math/measurement guidance here from those who might have the numbers handy?:

1210GR
Moving from: vm95sh on stock Technics headshell
Moving to: AT-OC9XML on AT-LH11H headshell

Assuming I have the VTA set correctly* right now for the current combo, what's my adjustment on the VTA dial to move to the new combo? (I understand the OC9 is sensitive to correct VTA, and I can fine-tune with a visual reference after I make the initial dial adjustment). I think I am asking what the height difference is in these combos.

Thanks!

*no guarantee it's perfect now but the sound is well-balanced

 

Supposedly the best you can do with that combo is a bit tail high with VTA dial at zero, more info in the OC9XML thread ... Audio-Technica AT-OC9XML Owners Club and Pictorial

 

I just pad the platter mat up and make sure vta is with the arm/cartridge level with the platter.
What's been working really well for me is a plain 3mm cork mat underneath the stock mat.


This method works just fine, I have the KAB damper installed so I can't even read the vta dial.

 

I use a bubble level for VTA and confirm it with a VTA Azimuth ruler.

On a separate note:
I had to move back to the stock Technics headshell from the AT-HS6BK headshell that came with my VM95ML as the AT headshell pin was too long. It was scraping the tonearm locking screw on my GR. I tried filing the pin down which was a bad idea as that resulted in a rough edge that could do even more damage. I heard you can actually push the pin in a little. I wish I tried that first.

 

Thanks all, I didn't mention that I'm running a 5mm Achromat, so I have some adjustment room. (I also have other mats)

 

Seems a risk to set such a weight on the stylus.

 

Apparently what you do is compensate for the weight of the level with the counterweight.

 

You can always just put something like a CD case on top of a record to minimize the gap when sighting S-shaped arms, add CD on top if need more height, makes it pretty easy to adjust and get it level with the record surface ...

 

It's not. They are designed for it: Diskeeper Tonearm Headshell Level 1.5 GRAMS

Works for azimuth as well. Highly recommend them. Makes it so much easier and things just opened up. I watched a video of some event where they were testing out super high end turntables. I forget the brand but they were in the tens of thousands. They had a guy adjust the tonearm for every record played. The turntable had some crazy adjustment settings. You could hire the guy for a few thousand to come out to your home and adjust your turntable for you. Anyway, an interesting take away is even the thickness of your vinyl will change the VTA. I think the turntable allowed for different settings so you could set it for different vinyl thicknesses. Using the bubble level I can see the difference between a 120g and 180g record. I don't worry about it myself, but it's there... The bubble level just lets me know I'm in range. I don't set it for every play. Just when setting up the cart the first time. I'll check every couple of weeks just to be sure VTA and azimuth are good.

And just to be clear - you don't play the record with the bubble still on the headshell. You just use the bubble to check it and then remove it before playing.

 

I use a VTA block instead, works great:

 

Thats the one I have. Works great for all angle settings. There is another block one can buy that has a stylus angle gage on it.

 

Hi all,
I had had enough of the famous distortion of the last track on a vinyl side so I changed my Om Gold to a 2M black tip. But the distortion (less audible) remains audible. However, my setting is correct and the arm is straight. Also, Techincs' recommendation at the time for an 18mm cartridge is closer to 0.5 than 3 on an SL1200 MK2's tonearm height with only the rubber mat and 3.5 when I add my felt.

 

IDGI, what’s the question?
AFAIK, IGD isn’t affected by VTA…

 

Usually the height difference with most non Technics headshells is around 2mm. You may require a thicker mat or spacer.

 

With a rightly installed fine line stylus you don't need to have IGD. But ... there are other situations:

- static
- dust
- groove damage (previous stylus wear)
- preamp overload
- etc

Check the obvious stuff, alignment, VTF, etc ... but then you can check that other stuff.

 

VTA would need to be EXTREMELY out of whack to have any effect, IME.