The Technics SL-1200 GAE/G/GR general questions thread

I just simply level the cart on a 180 gram record…and whatever angle the arm is, well that’s just the way it is…that’s my scientific approach…

 

I’m curious why the Achromat is suspect? I bought one to try and thought it performed as advertised. It did seem a little overpriced.

I’ve switched back to the thin Technics 3mm rubber mat (RGS0008) with the KAB poly-metal mat (which I was also using with the Achromat).

I thought both combinations sounded great, but I slightly prefer the Technics mat. It’s a little richer.

I also have the Technics 6mm (RGS010), which is what I was using before I got the KAB poly-mat. I should try it again soon!

 

The company sells a lot of wacky overpriced stuff. Not sure I'd want to give them a dime honestly.

 

Achromat is probably the single item they have sub contractors to do, their own kit is with no real QC, a friend heard rumors their failure is 40-50% of what's get out to stores, thats ridiculous if true but a pity as they seem to hit some good sound (when in working order).

 

Yikes.

 

I tried an Achromat, and I would say a mat is a mat, preferences will vary. I returned it because it wouldn’t lay flat, though. I don’t know if that’s typical, but it wasn’t worth messing with, for me.

 

If it wouldn’t lay flat than that’s no good at all!

 

Technics' head shell alignment device comes with their turntables or you can buy it for little money. I've checked it against protractors and it is pretty much as accurate as you need.

 

The overhang gauge is for cartridge alignment.
Those acrylic blocks are for VTA and azimuth (an estimate based on cartridge body).
Both have their own application.

 

My setup/alignment gear consists of:

-Technics gauge (I have two, because I had bought one for $6 prior to owning the GR)
-Digital calipers (I think I paid less than $10)
-Lined acrylic block to check VTA and azimuth visually ($15)
-VTF gauge (one of those cheap digital ones sold under several different brand names, somewhere between $11 and $15)
-Arc protractor I printed for free (specifically for 1200 overhang, I’ve linked it once or twice in the thread, not digging it back up now), minus whatever the sheet of paper and the toner cost me to print it
-Electrical or masking tape to lock the platter down during the operation (cost neglibible)
-Defective 180g copy of L.A. Woman I use to put everything at the right level (free, because it was defective and Amazon didn’t want me to bother sending it back when issuing my refund)

So for less than $50, maybe closer to $40, I’m getting the whole job done with entirely satisfying results.

 

I’m assuming he had the also-way-expensive WallyTractor in mind with that comment.

 

I'm getting a Technics gauge custom made so that it can support headshells with a pin on the bottom. I could break out a hacksaw but this is more fun.

The only thing that funk firm that I would buy is their mats. I had a warped one that I returned for a flat one. It had an edge warp. The boing feet look too home made. The cartridge spacer looks cheap, too.

 

Send pics of the custom headshell jig when you can!

 

I resorted to a hacksaw to make one of mine work for 2-pin headshells. It wasn’t among the safest things I’ve ever done.

 

I use the Technics overhang gauge with my SL-1200 mk2 and Vintage SL-1600. I also use the vintage Pioneer overhang gauge with my vintage PL-530 and PL-560 TT's. After setup I checked with the appropriate protractor and alignment was bang on. No fuss, no muss.

 

So basically I had dealings with the owner of Funk Firm to buy one of his decks, long story short is the deck was a train wreck quality wise so I sent it back to England.
There was a brief time where Arthur was not replying to emails and he told me he was busy trying to fix an issue with the making of the Achromats as they were coming out severely warped, so I don't know if he uses outside contracting to make them now but he was overseeing their manufacture at the time.
There were a lot of issues with the TT and the Boing feet were indeed a joke.
In the end I didn't see anything that would compel me to buy any products that he sells.

 

I could not understand why my channel separation was only ~18 dB when spec was 30 dB.
L to R (azimuth) was <0.5 dB, excellent
Balance ch to ch <0.5 dB, spec is 0.5 dB, my average 0.1 dB.

I think I figured it out? On my L and R test tracks there is signal on the 'off' channel -20 dB from the main tone.
Not a blank groove.

So the cross talk is the difference between the -20 dB to the measured -18 dB, referenced to the full signal.
The off channel was 'contaminated' by ~4.5 mV from the opposite channel.
It meets spec -30 dB.

 

Anyone try this on their 1200G? It's the Fidelix MITCHAKU headshell. It looks interesting.

 

It could've been less smart to use a power tool so I say you're still winning.

 

Looks like they have several models available. No experience, but they appear to be well made.

 

Oh, I didn’t say it wasn’t smart, just definitely something to do only using the utmost caution! In the end, I kept all my fingers and got a gauge that works with any headshell.

But, if I was to do it again, I’d maybe figure something else out, because it was a little scary.

 

I used a file. So boring of me.

 

How did you determine this?

 

Manual doesn’t say anything about the amp specifically needing to be grounded. Manual just shows the grounding lug with a comment “for phono arm grounding”.

Not getting any continuity from the turntable grounding lug to the rca output on the turntable.

 

Is there continuity between the grounding lug on the amp and the ground pin in the IEC socket?
Is there continuity between the grounding lug on the TT and the ground pin in the IEC socket?