Upgrading your AT-LP120 turntable

I have to second this. I just got a new AT-LP120-USB and it came with a cracked dust cover. I emailed them about it and they are already sending a replacement cover out to me. Top notch service!

 

I have a cork/rubber combo. It's about 3/8" thick, I guess - did you have to adjust the VTA after swapping the mat?

 

One question - does removing the preamp mess with the USB output? I mainly use the 120 to rip vinyl, so, while I would like it to sound better as a backup table, I wouldn't want to use the ability to digitize.

 

Is the overhang gauge ALL you need to mount a cart, or you still need to use the protractor? Sorry if this is a silly question - I have never, so far, installed a cart myself.

 

Just an idea for those who like messing around with this turntable. I have some of that As Seen On TV 'Flex Seal' Liquid (the stuff in the paint can) that I used to fix some hairline cracks in a fiberglass bathtub. A few weeks ago I was trying to get my LP 120 back in circulation in the TV room and based on a video I saw, I took a paint brush and the Flex Seal and 'painted' a couple coats on the underside of the platter and it made a great improvement as far as dampening goes.
Bad news is I still couldn't use it based on the tonearm... the slightest tip-toe footfall and this thing jumps right across the vinyl. Tried rolling some O-rings on the tone arm & invested in the Auralex Acoustic ISO-Tone Turntable Isolation Platform to no avail. I was also bothered by the sub-par anti skate. So I decided to go with a Lafayette Direct Drive Transcription Turntable I had in the closet... no issues walking around the room.
But I do appreciate all the suggestions to use a protractor to align the cartridge... I guess out of laziness I always used the Technics overhang gauge but this time I forced myself to be patient and use a protractor to align things properly. Funny thing is I then used the protractor on my Technics SL1200 and had to make some alignment adjustments... I reckon the protractor is a more definitive measure than the overhang gauge.

 

I skipped the overhang tool and used only the protractor. My at95 and 440mlb sat almost all the way back in the headshell to line up for the protractor. Using the protractor and settings Ben recommends made a huge improvement for me in reducing distortion

 

Yes the USB is on the same wiring so if you yank the preamp you lose USB. I haven't yanked my preamp yet and just use an external one and even that's a big improvement in sound. So I'd do that, or shop for a preamp with USB before yanking the internal

 

I have a cork rubber one too. The goal is to have the tonearm parallel to the record when its playing. I have my height at lowest possible and still needed another felt mat under my cork mat to get the tonearm low enough and record high enough to get the parallel tonearm.

 

Is the goal to get the tonearm parallel (level) or is it to ensure the cartridge is set up properly (ie. stylus azimuth is properly set)...........meaning the tonearm could not be level but azimuth could still be correct?

 

Honestly you've gone past my semi beginners knowledge. I've never done anything for azimuth or know how to mess with it on an ATLP120.

My beginner understanding for VTA is to get tonearm parallel to the record as best you can, knowing that different vinyl weight can make a slight difference. But that in general, getting it parallel is fine for starters, and since most of us in this thread are relatively new to turntables and all the fine tuning, it likely is enough for now

 

LOL it's all good

 

It's been many years, so I don't recall... The OEM felt mat is, what, 1/8" thick?

 

I've made almost all the upgrade suggestions from here to the ATLP120 and thought I'd summarize my experience, mostly for anyone just getting the turntable

1. For anyone brand new - clean your records, new and used, with home brew, spin clean, glue, whatever. Lots of minor tracking issues, crackle pop, this is a no brainer. Before you spend money on a counterweight or mat, get a spin clean or similar record cleaner.

2. Cork / Rubber mat - somewhat reduced static. On really dry days, I still had static where mat sticks to record on the flip. Not sure if I notice difference in sound from it, reducing noise from the turntable. I imagine it helps, but not something I notice.

3. Protractor printed from Ben's link. DO IT. It's a free tool, and made a big difference to me in any IGD or records I had sibilance challenges. It'll push the cart from the factory placement to almost all the way back, but it made a noticeable difference. Also, setting my tonearm height so it's parallel to the record when playing, I noticed slight improvement in low end vs it tilting down. With height all the way down, I still had to put a felt mat under my cork mat to get it about parallel.

4. I haven't removed my preamp (yet), but I did stop using the internal and moved to a Schiit Mani. Big improvement just doing that, definitely improves the EQ and clarity, reduced noise from the turntable too. Noticeable difference.

5. New cart - I went with an AT440MLB before. Another huge noticeable difference. Tracks much better than the cart that came with the turntable. Parts of albums I thought just had a scratch or skip from deep dust now has no issues. Reduces pops and crackle too, or at least its volume compared to the music. And any IGD or sibilance issues are gone for me.

6. Heavier counterweight - just got it this week. Maybe it'd be a noticeable difference to help the factory cart, or a different high end cart. I don't really notice any difference yet with the AT440MLB. I did try it on an album I have with a slight warp that the old cart could play but my new one bounces on. About the same results.

7. If you have a bunch of mono records, use the double-Y cord set up. It does seem to reduce the pops and crackle's volume in relation to the music.


For me the last piece will be removing the internal preamp. I'm just not sure I'm savvy enough to do it without ruining it, and will the difference between using an external preamp vs removing all together will make a noticeable difference to try it.

 

As has been stated MANY times in this thread, it makes all the difference. It was as significant as upgrading to a new, more expensive cartridge to me when I did it, and I had already done all the other mods. Just do it.

 

It being the preamp removal? Had you tried using a preamp without removing it and it still made a big difference? My plan is to pull it next month when I have some time

 

Yes,
Here is the list of things I did, with noted improvements. I think if you did all these at once, and played a before and after, your head would explode with the difference:

- Upgraded to Art DJ Pre-II preamp (big jump in sound)
- Upgraded to Linear DC power supply (modest jump in sound, but noticeable)
- Upgraded mat to two piece Pathe Wings german mat (minor improvement in bass precision, massive improvement in static)
- Added AT Branded record weight (tightens up sound, less smearing, helpful for warps, modest improvement in sound)
- Upgraded cartridge to LP Gear AT-95VL set (Massive improvement in IGD and detail retrieval)
- Used a digital VTF gauge; the float tonearm method was off by almost a gram!! (refinement of sound, less skipping)
- Added heavy counterweight (no change in sound noted)
- Lined Platter with sound deadening material (helped with speed stability, platter ringing)
- O-ring on tone arm (no change in sound noted)
- Removed pre-amp and upgraded to better RCA cables (massive increase in clarity, generating better stereo separation and height and width increases in soundstage)
- Upgraded to AT7V Japan imported cartridge (smoother, still detailed treble, quieter "pops and clicks"/blacker background, takes time to break in)
- Upgraded to Lounge Audio LCR mkiii Preamp (incredible stage, huge increase in stereo separation, more dynamic sound, better clarity, super detail improvement. More significant than a cartridge upgrade)


I hope this helps you. This table is capable of A LOT, and lends itself well to experimentation. I don't see this being the first piece I replace in my chain, yet it is by far the cheapest component in the chain.

Thanks, Kevin

 

Appreciate the info, thanks for that!

 

When you take the preamp out...Un-solder the whole cable and solder a better RCA cable on. Pull the platter off and remove the motor screws..and put foam underneath that whole mechanism...and don't put the screws back in. Put on a cork or rubber mat...maybe on top of the a deer skin mat...get that platter parallel with the tone arm...Get the bigger counter weight and get a scale to measure you tracking force. Get a protractor and and an over cartridge over hang gauge. Level the table your turntable is on...and get a spindle weight with a level built into it...You'll love the LP-120...

 

Yep, after these mods, Ive never looked at another turnable.

 

Foam under the mechanism - what kind of foam?

 

I bought a premounted Ortofon Blue MM from Amazon on a Blue Ortofon Headshell....sounds perfcet.

 

Can upgrading the headshell help suppress hum? I have an AT-120 LP and the hum is pretty bad at times. I kinda tightened the connections from AT headshell to Ortofon blue cart. but if you come close the TT the hum gets worse.
Any help in this matter would be greatly appreciated!!

 

Answering my own silly question... Answer is no.... Other issues going on with my setup. Must be picking up RF from other sourse. Having DVD player, Cable box, TT, and AVR shoved in one cabinet is probably the culprit. Thanks lovey....

 

It may be worth trying a thin piece of insulating tape right across the top of the Ortofon cart or underneath the headshell to break possible connection (pierce 2 holes for the screws). I once stopped hum on a 2M Black by doing this.

 

I finally did it!!! I disconnected the built in preamp and wow!!! Less noise is picked up from the plinth. More open and less surface noise. I used this turntable for needle drops using the usb but no more. Will be doing needle drops another way.
The ground wire added has to be an improvement over grounding to the metal bass inside. Excellent hour spent.