Valve learning question for a newbie ( Vincent SV-237MK)

Yes, fully back to earth and sounding great, believe all issues resolved.

 

What was the problem and how did you resolve it?

 

Had little trouble removing my one, you will be rewarded!

 

Several dry solder joints with hardly ANY solder on IEC inlet cable...…..Friday afternooner? Got my tech chap here to do it, as Vincent sent him the schematic ( to their credit ) he was amazed at the build quality of the amp, not so amazed on the soldering...….

 

Glad it is all taken care of. I have not had any problems with mine since buying a pair of 6N1P's from Amazon. I think the ones I purchased on eBay from Russia were just defective.

 

Thank you Sir- l really like this amplifier, as l said l think it was just a rogue amp.

 

Loving every minute of mine, still with the stock tubes in place !
Just wondering, in case I ever decide or have to do it, what kind of tiny screws are they that are holding to top cover in place ? Are they Torx screws ?

 

Yes Torx, my lid came off very easily, glad you are enjoying the amp!

 

Ok thanks ....... as I understand it, I know them as requiring an Allen key for removal.

 

l went out and brought a small, cheapo Torx set, even someone as clumsy as myself can take the lid off, l have a number of times upgrading the valves.

Oh and the lid will be coming off again soon for another tweak.

 

Thank you for the description. Looks like I’m going to wait a few more weeks before rolling as my speakers (Buchardt S400) seem to still be braking in. I think I’ll give them an extra 100hrs or so before tube rolling.

 

Can you really notice the change so much?

 

I had one screw that was very stubborn to get out and nearly stripped the head. I now just put that one back in very loosely.

 

l was sceptical about changing valves..... if you go this route there is only a couple sources for the 6NIP-EV... try to get the best you can afford the window position, and yes it is easy to hear- good luck.

 

I have never had any issues removing small signal tubes, their glass envelopes are pretty thick and solid.

However, I have had three KT88, large power tubes blow and crack their glass envelopes.

This necessitated grasping them by the bass for removal. Which is not a bad idea anyway, as the bass is separate from the glass envelope.

After seeing that the thin envelopes are prone to cracking, I am very careful to always grasp the bass of the larger power tubes when inserting and removing them.

Makes better sense overall.

 

Also understand that tube rolling is not always the best thing to do with your tube gear.

Modern tube ear is usually always manufactured and voiced to use modern tubes that are readily commercially available.

Oftimes, vintage tubes will give you a different but not necessarily better sound depends?

 

I've had Vincent tube amp and tube preamp for 13 years....no issues.

 

Is it plausible to just leave the screws out and just place the top plate back in position but not screwed in ?

 

Completely plausible. Perhaps a better idea is to just put a couple of the screws in loosely just so the cover doesn't move around. For me it is a major hassle if I have to replace a tube due to the rack I have it in. I have to disconnect everything and then pull it out of the rack. It is the price we pay to enjoy great sounding gear

 

unless tubes go bad you shouldn't have to replace for a while. I've a combination of Gold Lion...Valvo and Bugle Boys and haven't changed them in a few years...still sounds dynamic a nd lovely.

 

Choosing the right small signal tubes can have a significant impact on you systems sound signature.

They are usually, not very expensive and seem to last practically forever.

Large power tubes will usually have limited life spans of about 2k hours.

 

@Slippers-on Is the Bugle Boy in the window position?

 

I'm not using a Vincent integrated amp. I use a amp/preamp..and it's not in the window.

 

For those interested on "substitute" tubes, on my EAR834P "clone" Phono preamp (I think tubes make a greater impact on Phono preamps than on integrated amps or preamps, justmy 0.02 $) I've used Matsushita 12AX7 and 12AU7 with great results, I have three sets (12AX7 x2, 12AU7 x1) of them. These are "Japanese Mullards" as they were made on Mullard tooling, set up by Mullard technicians who also spent sime time in Japan training Matsushita staff on how to properly make tubes, and of course these use a Mullard design. These are underrated tubes, as all Japanese tubes.
You can also try Yugoslavian Ei ECC83 and ECC82. These are "Yugoslavian Telefunken", who sold their tooling and design to a Yugoslavian company in the early 1970's. Everybody will tell you that they don't sound nothing like real Telefunkens but the truth is that they are fine sounding tubes IMHO and can be got cheap. I've also stocked these, I'm currently using one Ei made Siemens ECC83 on the V2 position of the EAR834P "clone" that does 25% of amplification and RIAA de-equalization, I love these on the V1 and V2 position. I got 10 pairs of them for dirty little money last Summer. These are Marshall branded Ei ECC83 and I paid 180 Euros for the 10 tubes including shipping to Spain, they're new, of course.
I also like some Hitachi tubes, I'm currently using an Hitachi 7025 as a V1 tube on my EAR 834P "clone" (it does around 75% of amp), it's a very quiet and smooth sounding tube. I'm also using an Hitachi 12AU7 tube from 1964 (bought NOS and NIB) as a V3 that's used as a tube buffer on a cathode follower configuration to keep impedance down and reduce distorsion. I've also used Ei and RFT ECC82 as a V3 tube and they sound great, I change tubes as my mood changes.

 

Here you have an inexpensive pair of Eastern Germany RFT ECC83/12AX7 :ECC83 2pcs (12AX7) Vintage RWN AMP tube NOS new M.Pair | eBay