Very new to vinyl...question

oh trust me, i know...I have so much headphones and amps for it, including other gimmick stuff like cables and what not (MDR-Z1R, IER-Z1R, TH-900, ZH1ES, Silver Dragon, etc, among other crap)..but there are limits...basically whatever your low-end is, that's what it will be around. I don't intend to keep upgrading my stereo / vinyl side though as I don't have the room for it (like neighbors sound polution wise, etc). Right now, I'm just looking for something with more clarity with the music, and the current setup is not yet satisfactory yet and seeing what I can do with the LP120X

 

As someone else already suggested go to the vinyl engine website > loaded with resources you can get help from. And as others have said, get a better stylus for the cart you already have. Take your time with all this > get a better stylus and learn to set it up properly by "dialing in" the correct number setting for your cartridge and arm on your table. Then see if you notice a difference in sound. Some of what you asked is sort of jumping the gun quite a ways into the future from where you are at this point. I've been where you are > "been there, done that!" Lots of things in this hobby take time and patience. Especially for one like me who is so technically challenged. You will work it all out!

 

1) yes
2) whichever you like, you have to make that decision.
3) Part a :yes, Part b : yes
4) 1.8

 

Your deck has an included phono stage. If you're using it, you can use a standard RCA cable because the phono stage has strengthened the signal. This will allow you to also use extended lengths, 12 to 15 feet shouldn't be a problem. If you are using a different phono stage, then things are different. You want to use a low capacitance cable. Capacitance is signal loss because the wire's resistance characteristic is holding onto some of the energy. With a weak signal straight out of the cartridge, you want to reduce the degradation of the signal. This is also means shorter runs. A stock cable is normally 3 to 5 feet, you don't want to go much longer than this. So it depends which setting you are using. Line will allow longer run with no real concern about the wiring. Using the Phono setting, you need to keep the cable short and use a low capacitance cable. Your stock cartridge is Moving Magnet, so the low capacitance cable isn't as critical as it would be if you were using a Moving Coil. But you shouldn't extend the cable with a phono output.

 

In all honesty, I wouldn't mess around with changing cartridges yet. It's great that you're getting into vinyl, and the last thing I'd want is for you to break a stylus, align it wrong and have it sound bad, or just get frustrated somehow and give up. Properly setting up a cartridge is no fast task, and for someone who doesn't understand what they're doing will probably take forever. So to answer your first question, I simply wouldn't upgrade... not yet.

When talking about the lifespan of your cartridge, the cartridge will last forever basically but the stylus (needle) is the part that wears out. Assuming you are cleaning your stylus after every side and only playing clean records, your stylus should last somewhere around 1000 hours (or so I've heard, I haven't ever got that far with one cartridge). When that time comes, you simply buy a new stylus and swap it out with the one on the cartridge. It will cost a fraction of the price you paid for the cartridge originally.

About that AT95E, yes the anti-skating dial should be set to two and the vertical tracking force should also be at 2g. I believe the LP-120 has a counterweight with numbers already on there for easy setup. There are plenty of videos out there on how to dial in your VTF, here's one:

To summarize what he says in the video, start by removing the stylus guard (and at this point be very careful), and then by adjusting the counterweight on the back of the tonearm make it so the tonearm will float and be level without any assistance. Once you've got it like this, set the small black part of the counterweight so that the 0 lines up to the centre of the top part of the tonearm shaft. Once that's done just double check again to make sure you ONLY adjusted the black ring, and not the whole counterweight. Check this even more by just doing the "float test" again. Then turn the counterweight (entire thing) until the 2 lines up to the centre of the top part of the tonearm shaft. When this is done, the end with the cartridge on it should naturally go down when you're not assisting it.

It's important to learn about how a turntable works and all the little details. At that point it's pretty hard to damage your records with a poor setup. Learn as much about vinyl playback as you can too!

 

Thank you everyone! while searching one of the Authorized Dealer for AT, one of the dealers was having a sale for the 540 with the head unit for 149.99...so I think i'm going to bite on that even though majority here says it's overkill for the LP120X. I understand it's an overkill for the 120x, but it can't be worse than the stock..at least what I'm guessing. It's also Authorized Dealer (even says it in AT website) and in U.S.A. so I'm pretty sure it's legit...

However, the other guides and links posted already are also very useful and i really truly appreciate it.

 

HOLD ON - there are a number of phony dealers on the net. The 540ML with headshell is $289 from any authorized dealer when it is new. What is the place with that price? Just the name, not the .com , don't link it in your response.

 

1) You will notice an improvement with the cartridge upgrade. The cartridge makes the most difference in your vinyl experience... everything makes a difference, but the cartridge more so. At some point, your next upgrade would likely be the turntable.

2) Buy just the cartridge with stylus, which will save a few $$ -or- If the headshell is a direct replacement for the LP-120, and the cartridge pre-aligned, then this would bypass setting up the cartridge, just set the tracking force .. plug n play! However, everyone who owns a turntable should become familiar with the set up and the terminology. I suggest to watch a tutorial on you tube, and purchase an alignment protractor.

3) The cartridge will outlast the life of the sun. (ok- a minor overstatement) the stylus can be replaced with the same, or an upgrade that fits the cartridge.

4) The weight is your "tracking force" the number "2" is in grams. The dial on the right side is the anti-skate setting. All pivotal arms (like the one you have) tend to skate inward. The antiskate applies side counter-force to compensate for skating. The antiskate should be set to the tracking force (ie: tracking at 2 grams, the anti-skate on "2") as this will usually be in the "ballpark" .. we don't need to be too fine with the anti-skate setting.

 

It's on AudioTechnica's very own webpage as a Authorized Reseller (that's how I found it). Regardless, I placed the order and will verify with AT or however I can before I start using them or test it on the dummy vinyl I use for test stuff. Riot I think was their name..it's currently back up at 289.99 but I placed one before they reverted back

 

A new question...I now know that the Cartridge is basically...what coverts the grooves as a sound for a the speaker... kind of like a D.A.C (if i'm wrong, please correct me). So does that mean, the needle / stylus part can be anything? i.e. lets say i'm using the 540 then take the stylus from the 95e (assuming it's fitting) ...same results or no? are each needles different as well?

 

The best advice hassle free and with a secure upgrade.

Do it.

 

The needles are very different. The MicroLine is an advanced shape and should give superior performance to the elliptical stylus on your 95e.
Here’s more information on different stylus types: https://www.sound-smith.com/articles/stylus-shape-information

 

Thank you very much... I tried Googling' the answer but being the beginner that I am, I could not find results (such as that page) with the keywords i was using. That link was very helpful!

 

I think you've got it backwards. MM are affected by capacitance loading. MC are not due to the low inductance, generally.