I was just getting ready to order some Belden 1505F for interconnects. Is the Mogami W2549 as flexible as the Belden?
Thank you *all* for such great input. These cables are not expensive, so I decided to buy both 2549 and and 2497, and compare them both on my system, noting all the comments here, and the post elsewhere by @Steve Hoffman that it is always system dependent ...he has a high end piece of equipment that only sounds good with the crappiest of Radio Shack cables. No doubt I will upgrade in the future, but will have some low end cables to compare to. Others mentioned other cables, but it was just tough enough to get the scoop on these cables. I bought the cables bulk, and plan to buy either some Eichmann’s, or Neutrik’s, and then pull out my trusty soldering iron. Despite my hope that I would not be dragged down the rabbit hole of cable swapping, I’m waving a white flag of surrender to the mentorship of @Warren Jarrett and @Steve Hoffman. (Damn you guys! ) I also bought a length of 2803 to use from my universal player to my integrated AN (UK) amp. Again, thanks everyone for your comments, advice and wisdom.
One thing to note, with the 2549 it is recommended to ground only one end to sheild, the source end, which makes it a directional cable as far as the grounding scheme. It's said they sound better that way-preventing noise, ground loops.
Just one suggestion: I've used twinax with the shield floating at one end very effectively in unbalance home hifi for years -- but not in a phono application. I've found that geometry is always noisy in a phono application. Better to connect the shield at both ends, or use coax for a phono cable. For the OP's phono pre to integrated, no problem. But usually with a phono cable that geometry can be a problem. I also don't think with unbalanced audio, letting the shield float on one end really solves ground loop problems. The earth ground of that kind of equipment is still tied to signal ground and you're still making signal ground connections obviously.
It's interesting you mention that, my TT to phono pre cable is a cheap, plastic rca. My better cables don't sound as good there. I thought it was odd, but there you go.
Just made a boatload of IC's with 2549 cable and is indeed an improvement from the mixed group of cables that were in my system. I need a small break then gonna make some with the 2497 for the phono input and if enough the digital side. Not enough listening yet but really can hear more texture is the best I can describe it.
Thank you very much for noting that. There was some confusion on that issue on the YouTube videos that I found on this subject.
Thanks, though I need to correct myself. Between my TT and integrated is a step up transformer that I have on loan. My Phono pre- is within the integrated.
Good advice is always worth a lot to me! Any particular Neutrik? Are the all the same? I was just sitting down to figure out what connector to buy. My cables will arrive this weekend.
Even the cable from the SUT to the phono pre -- you can try twinax with shield floating at one end, but my experience with that is that is going to be noisy in that application. I like twinax with shield floating at one end. I use cable like that I make myself with Belden cable in many places in my system, but not in phono applications before the first active gain stage. That geometry is too prone to noise in that application. Personally I've found standard coax with double braided shielding to work a lot better in that application, but you could try the shielded twinax, I'd just recommend making sure the shield runs right up to the RCA (no drain wires, do that anyway, better shielding and lower resistance) and connect it at both ends, don't let it float at one end.
Heads up if you are building IC's with Mogami 2497. It's larger than normal 8.0 mm diameter is not compatible with many (most) RCA's. I have two brands at home and both are too small for assy. I plan to drill out the Switchcraft RCA's that I have to make it work. The NYS373 appears to be too small, the nf2c-b-2 can work but you have to buy an accessory that allows for it.
