They sound the same, and I'm fairly confident noone was in there before me. It's not a problem though they're not that critical. Thanks for your help.
No problem. If you decide to take any further steps with the speakers, please let us know what your thoughts are.
My current project involves opening a can of beer, then pouring it, carefully, into a glass. After that I intend to attempt drinking the beer from the glass.
thanks, no I’m making them…one of the things I’m figuring out now is where to mount everything… the Lpad is going on the back unlike a lot of Altecs…the back is cut in half so it will be easier to button everything up at the end… staining the cabs comes next, trying to match them to my TT plinth…not easy, I didn’t stain TT and it’s a different kind of wood…
Does the Schiit Aegir's 20 wpc sufficient for a home movie theater to power the front L and R speaker in a 7.2.4 setup? I like to listen from my couch at 14' away from the screen at 80 db, in a room that is 12' wide x 17' long x 12' ceiling. I currently use either the Parasound 2250 v.2 (275wpc at 8 ohm, 400 wpc at 4 ohm, 45 amp current) or Arcam AVR5 (80 wpc, can power 4 ohm) to power the front L and R. I just though that maybe the Schiit's pure Class A might sound better than my other two which are Class A/B.
20% off at Parts Connection I finally got to change out my volume potentiometer: Alps for TKD. 10x increase in sound? Of course not, but 100% increase in peace of mind and another part off the want list! While the iron was hot I finished this up:
This is gorgeous. Excellent job! I have wanted to do something like this with an SP-10 or 25 for years.
Well if you consider that they are part of my system and how it sounds, I like them. I couldn't really say how much difference they made as I made a lot of changes when replacing the Clarity that came with my amp. When I first changed them out I said that the bass tightened up and I got more air and detail. I think they made more difference than the Mundorf Supreme silver/gold oil I first put in. I am considering changing them to copper/silver as Parts Connection has a 40% off sale right now. I am running the KPCU-01 right now.
I appreciate that! I’ve been dreaming up this build for a few years now and I’m loving every listening session with it. I say find yourself an SP10 and get to building!
With respect to the op, these threads might reach a wider audience if separated. Could be a whole separate category 'audio DIY' forum!?
I actually had the old Q10 way back in the olden days, the all blue ones. Sold them so I must not have been impressed. These are sounding pretty good so far!
I don't disagree, below is a quote from the opening post, but not everyone wants to start a separate thread of their own ...
Finally got to the hardware store to get some grommets for my VPI junction box: I also picked up some spades for the grounds. My junction box is already hard wired, I bought one from Steve at VAS. After I bought it and thought about it, I figured I should have done it myself. Just needed the wire. Changing out all my ICs to DH Labs was good timing so I got another couple of short runs and soldered them up. So far so good!
Hi all. Just a quick update on my amp build I picked up a trio of these tubes for the input/driver stage that are matched to each other as well as triode balanced. I have about 10 hours on them so far. Most people say they need around 30-50 hours to really open up. So far they already sound better to me on my system than the 3 matched JJ 6SN7's they replaced. CV181-TII| I have been scouring the internet to find a matched quad set of these but I was told today they have been discontinued so now I am in search for a quality alternative if I can't find anymore of them. If anyone has any thoughts for an alternative or a lead on a quad set of these I would be very appreciative. 6CA7-TII|
After much angst and burning midnight oil I made..... a ‘plate’. E46 D4095 7 C6 C 4540 8661 95 EF1 EE5 C938 — Postimages The above link shows my Walker CJ55 motor mounting plate as it will be set up for the experimental skeletal deck. The height of this motor mount will dictate the mounting height of the main sub-chassis (which has been stiffened and is at the repaint stage), and depth of machining for the suspension towers into the base board so this is the best place to start. The plate will be held by isolated bolts from underneath the baseboard. The bolt holes are oversize to allow lateral belt adjustment and motor tilt can be set by adjustment of the bolts with some compression of the isolators. The ducting for the wires to the underside of the base is more complex to make than the motor mount itself, but hopefully that will appear here soon.
After moving into our retirement home, I rebuild several panels from my old place to treat the new space.
Project Philips cd723 Part two. Having found a very good article on cd723 mods on Decibel Dungeon from Nick Whetstone(2004), I found another player for mods having given away the original. The original DD article is by far the best source and contains far more mods than mentioned here, I'm just going to do a brief overview. The player is not as good as the previous one having a very dim display and the tray was covered in dust, however it does track ok. The top cover, as with most second hand cdps, was scratched up so that needed a repaint. Following the earlier suggestions from jfeldt I added some damping to the case. Just a cut up mat from Ikea, can only do one side of the case as there is little clearance above the short loader. This time I went with schottky diodes for less noise, these are mounted well above the pcb for cooling. Although schottky diodes are allegedly quieter, the penalty is that their resistance increases with temperature leading to exciting thermal runaways! These are mbr150's which have a 50v rating and well over 1amp transient capability. Thanks to Nicks article it mentioned that one of the resistors in the opamp psu is completely wrong, both 3537 and 3538 are supposed to be 220 ohm, one was 1.2k ! these need checking and replacing (blue resistor left middle). Top right the three blue resistors are changed to from 100 to 22 ohm this improves wave shape apparently. The green capacitors are 4.7uf bi-polar muse and they are bypassed beneath the board. The originals were 47uf polar. The op amp this time is a NE5532 (£1)which was far cheaper than the OPA2134(£5) again this is as suggested in Nicks article so I went with it. The OPA probably post dates the article both seem fine though to my ears. And now the major change over anything done previously. Basically bypassing the psu caps and the signal caps, what a difference! The noise floor is now lower and all sorts of never heard before subtle rhythms can be heard. This had to be done under the board, the two red 0.1uf wima mks2 caps are bypassing the big PSU electrolytes. The two yellow 0.22uf are bypassing the signal bi-polars. Huge thanks to Nick for his original DD article and if you're into this sort of thing please do seek it out. Comments welcome.
Late addition, add 0.1uf polystyrene capacitors between the ± tracks of the opamp and DAC. Deeper bass and more composed.
