I've read that the Psvane 845-T II's are a nice upgrade to the stock tubes, so you probably made a very good purchase. I'll be curious to hear what you think, since the prices are much more reasonable on those than the WE845s and I am open to trying them.
I have the Psvane 845-T II's in my 518. They offer much more resolution than the stock tubes, but also lose a little midrange meat. I should probably put the stock ones in just to make a comparison, now that the Psvane's are broken in. Has anyone tried GE 6l6GC's in their 518 yet? I'm curious how they would compare to the RCA 6L6GC black plates I'm currently using.
The WE845s are all about the "midrange meat" as you have so wonderfully put it. Lots more body and texture versus the stock tubes, especially in the lower midrange/upper bass. Not quite as colorful or forward though. I switched from the RCA black plates to the GE's quite a while back, and have preferred them. I recently put the RCA's back in to do a fresh comparison, and spent a week or so with them again. I definitely prefer the GE's though, and I miss them quite a bit when they are gone. I also did a similar thing with my 12AX7's, put the Telefunken Smooth Plates back in for a month or two. Then went back to the Mullard 10M. Teles were better than I remembered from early on, but I similarly missed the 10M's a lot. The 10M's bring forward a lot of percussion and detail that is buried in the mix, while the Telefunkens shine a spotlight on the midrange and have nice extension in the highs and also have some wonderful 3D virtues, but I miss hearing all the rhythmic stuff going on in music that the 10M's bring forward nicely.
Yes, it's two hours plus. My man cave is in the basement with the front underground and separated from the outside by a storage room and with the rear backed by the garage, so it is far away from direct sunlight. During summer, I leave the door to the cave opened overnight to get some cool air in. I usually listen in the morning after the kids have gone to schools and the wife to work, so it is not that bad. In the morning, I usually make the coffee and while waiting for my Starbuck's French roast thick coffee to slowly drip, I start my listening session. For me, listening to the music while sipping that thick coffee mixed with condensed milk and ice could not be better. However, I sometimes during the summer have to go topless when it gets too warm. Plus, I grew up in a Tropical climate where 80ºF is normal, so I am more comfortable with or even prefer the heat than the cold.
And since I am basically doing an update with all my tube preferences with the 518, I might as well mention the rectifier. I have similarly gone long stretches with all 3 of the rectifiers I have (all described earlier in this thread). I will say that I do like the Philips a lot with some digital. It gives a lot more oomph in the bass, and some of my music seems to benefit a little from it. But, I don't care for the sound of vinyl using that rectifier, and so I have gone back to the Mullard metal base GZ34, which is really a wonderful tube. I also like that it protects the rest of my tubes at startup versus the Philips tube. For the 502CA DAC, I spent a long time with the CBS 7318 in there, and right now I have my NOS Mullard 12AU7's in there to compare back to. With this one, I don't have a clear winner. Both tubes are just wonderful, but do different things. Nothing touches the CBS for vocals and midrange magic in general. But again, the Mullards do give more grip to the bass and seem to instill some rhythmic order to everything that I find addicting, and especially welcome for digital music. Neither one is a cheap option, but the Mullards are far easier to source.
When I initially put in my mullard cv4003 12AU7's (I've seen steve mention these as his all time favorite 12AU7), the midrange and bass became fuller and more prominent but a lost a tad of transparency and air. Then when I put in the tung sol 6x4 it actually brought the transparency back, but in a smoother way, while maintaining all of the mid and bass improvements from the 12AU7's but tightening it up actually. Together, in the 502ca, these tubes sound absolutely fabulous. I have had no desire to even try others out, I am that pleased by the DAC's sound now.
Also using Mullard CV4003s in my 502CA, but a NOS Genelex 6X4, which is surprisingly cheap and available for something containing the words "NOS Genelex". I haven't tried any other rectifier so I can't compare the sound.
I know this post is old. Just curious how you like the Brimar's. They the 4003's? Tempted to get those over the Mullard 4003 at half the price.
I have a Sylvania 6x4 in the 502. It sounds okay. Where do you guys source your tubes from? I will let you know how the 845T-IIs sound. Alas, I am a sucker for midrange magic that you mention the WE845s have. Oh well. Thanks, jkull, for the 300B experiences! Hey, I see you have your 502 opened up, jkull. Yes, gold is good. That sounds like an awesome way to spend each morning, Binh! For my part, I have to run around like a madman feeding, petting, and cleaning up post-night damage done by 6 cats before work each morning. Hi Erocka2000! Are you on the pink fish media forum as well? I lurk there sometimes. Thanks for the insight into the T-IIs. I'm glad someone is happy with them. Best, Rory
It is a tung sol 6x4WA. There are regular 6x4, then A , and WA versions I believe. The WA are held to the highest standards for military equipment. Changing that rectifier tube was a more dramatic effect than changing the 12AU7's id say. Immediately, very obvious. The balance in all the frequencies, to me, is very good. The 6x4 left me lacking nothing. It brought transparency back withOUT overdoing it to the point my voices are 'overdone'. Smooth warm punchy clear. Im actually a pretty big metal guy. Believe it or not, good Recordings in this genre can work as a good test for balance for me. The 6x4 brought some attack in as well. Snares snapped more, toms rang a little better etc. I'd love to compare other 6x4's. I didn't feel rushed to do so however, as I'm happy with what I've got going on. I highly recommend you get one right away. Like $10 for one on eBay. Are you using the stock rectifier tube still? If I recall, you aren't, but without scrolling up to check, I'll just ask..
I've left it open, that's right! I like the little green LED light in contrast with my tubes in a dim setting Also have it off for if I did any further modding...I got my 300B's off a guy on audiogon. I've gotten all my pre amp tubes off eBay, as well as my 6x4. Nothing wrong with eBay, plenty of tube sellers who test their tubes and post their measurements and all in the listing..
Thanks for the added detail on the effect of the Phillips rectifier in the 518. That's a huge help. To double down on that aspect, how would you quantify and describe the sound quality of the Mullard metal base GZ34 vs. the Phillips with vinyl? It's what I listen to the most. I picked up the Amperex Bugle Boy but haven't dropped it in yet - and also considering the Mullard non-metal big base tube as well.
I think a lot of the Philips (Amperex) 5AR4/GZ34 rectifiers were actually manufactured by Mullard in England, meaning they are essentially the same tubes. Just check where they were manufactured. The Mullard metal base is an extremely REFINED-sounding tube. Very smooth in every frequency range. A little on the warm side of neutral. Colorful, but not super-saturated. It is the sort of tube that doesn't assert its character in an immediately obvious way, but more grows on you the longer you listen. The other rectifiers I have tried do certain things more impressively, but none are as well-balanced overall and way above average in every way like the Mullard. If you need more bass, the Philips that Upscale Audio sells will give it to you, but at the expense of a heavier, darker sound. That Genalex Gold Lion GZ34 is more colorful, and will brighten up a system that is too dark or murky. But if your system is already fairly neutral, or has a sound you already love, then the metal base Mullard will not take it in a new direction. But it will double down (to use your phrase!) on what you have and bring a new level of refinement to everything. And I'm not sure the midrange can get any sweeter.
Btw, those early Mullard 5AR4/GZ34 rectifiers (both metal base and later) have a reputation for lasting forever. Some people report 30 years or more. So don't be afraid of a used tube. You could save a bundle, and still get 10-15 years out of one of these.
Many thanks. The Mullard metal base sounds like it has a similar effect as the NOS Tung Sol 6SN7GTB. Which I love in just about any system. I'll take the plunge!
The 845T-IIs arrived. Four hours in and the sound seems clearer. Voices are slightly more forward in the mix compared to the stock tubes. The soundstage may be a bit better filled out, though image focus was a bit diffuse in the beginning. Bass is tighter. They aren't as rich sounding as the original tubes, which isn't so great with my Audio Physic speakers. I guess I'll keep listening but I'm slightly underwhelmed at the moment. These take about 70 hours to break in?
If you don't feel they are as a 'whole' an improvement, can go return them? Maybe it would be worth bumping up to the next model or so up? If it comes to that...
When you put new pair of 845's in your amp (I have a LM 518), with the bias screws down all the way, where should the tubes idle, or within what range should a healthy tube read? I'm asking because I bought a new "matched" pair of Psvane 845B's (which are not branded with a B, I was told they are the current replacement for 845 hifi's, confussing because another eBay seller has 845B's which are branded with a B) and one reads 40 and the other 65. I could use some advice. Should I return both and ask for a matched pair, or return just one and ask them to match the tube I keep? Would a matched pair with bias idling at 40 be too low or would a matched pair at 65 be too high? I checked the older tubes I have (original stock 845 hifi & T-II's) which have about 500 hours on them and they idle between 49 and 56 with the bias screw all the way down. I can't remember where my first set of replacements (T-II's) idled at, but I think it was in the 50's or 60's. So, I'm assuming a bias reading of 40 is too low, but I don't know. Thanks in advance for any advice.
I'm not sure what the lowest bias level would be, I just know that I bias my Psvane 845T-II's at 70. They haven't deviated at all since setting them.
