1967 Magnavox Imperial Astro Sonic

i just Bought a 1967 Magnavox Imperial Astro Sonic Console It is Called the Spanish Mediterranean Model. Here is what I wanted to ask a Question about it. It was there Top of Line Model it is called the Spanish Mediterranean Model. It has all the Bell's & Whistles.
Here is the Question I would like to Ask.
On the Back of the Console there is a Hole Drilled about the Size of my Middle Finger. It came with the 4-Track Reel to Reel.
Would the Factory Drilled that Hole or would the Original Owner Drilled that Hole? I know it was Drilled from the Inside Out & the Hole was Drilled with a Round Hole Saw. I got one more Question also on the Collaro 4-Speed Turntable the Tonearm does tap the side of Record but the Arm goes under the Record it look's like the Tonearm don't lift High enough is there any adjustment for that?

Ronald

 

There's a site called vintagehifi.net that has catalogs and service manuals for Magnavoxes. Might have better luck there.

 

I have trouble with a 1968 Magnavox 4-Speed Collaro Turntable model W320. It looks like it was barely used NO Scratch's or dust on it. I Replaced the Cartridge with a OEM Electro Voice barely used Cartridge & I Replaced both Rubber Wheel's & Regreased the Whole Table & it still don't work right. When an Record Album is the Tonearm goes under the Record instead of Tap's the Record Side. Is there an Adjustment for that? The Record play's Perfectly & Re-Ject's Perfectly so what is wrong with it? I'd say it wasn't used much at all. So is there anyone out there that could help me out?
It is on the 1968 Imperial Astro Sonic 100 with the Phantom Air Remote. There is a Solonoid on the Turntable that work's right for the Remote Operation.
What is Wrong with it?

 

Impossible to say Ronald. I have restored turntables and was a professional bench tech for a local stereo shop and IBM (repair of their test eqip during the 80's) I qualify my advice just to help you save some time and frustration. The repair and adjustment should be in the hands of an experienced tech.

The arm landing position should be a screw located under the arm, just to the right of the arm pivot. The problem may not be the adjustment. If the arm varies its landing position, the cause is not the adjustment. The arm lift during cycle should be a thumb screw under the arm pivot (tight access) or under the base. You need to refer to a service manual (I also need to reference the manual for that particular changer)

Lastly, you must yourself, be mechanically inclined. If not, don't touch the turntable. (except to change the stylus) Do not rely on "you tube" tutorials. Remove it from the stereo, ship to a service tech who does turntables. I do not know personally any service techs. I do mine myself. Perhaps another member could advise!

That's a nice retro console you have, worth a nice restoration to spec. Record changer malfunctions (working but not working right) are often caused IME by an incompetent tech who "scr#wed it up" and .... no insult intended but often true ..... a previous owner who tried to fix it himself. The bad work and damage has to be "undone" which is a technician's nightmare, and a high repair cost .... just to make this point so be prepared.

Good Luck,
Steve VK

 

On that Magnavox Collaro Turntable I have a lot of Knowledge on them but this One has me Scratching my Head On. The Thing I had to Replace was the Cartridge the Person who had it before me put the Wrong Cartridge in luckily I had a few OEM Ceremic Electro Voice's here & I had to Resolder one of the Pin's back on what a mess that was. I wish people wouldn't touch it that never did it before.
What happen's is when I turn the Re-Ject Switch the Tonearm goes under the Record it looks like the Tonearm don't go high enough to tap the side of the Record? The Record does drop. I did get some Jewelry Screw drivers.

 

I think a lot of people here have no idea what you are talking about. I know this type of turntable, we had one when I was a kid. It's a changer, and to find the size of the record about to drop, the arm rises up and taps the edge of the record. Then it drops the record, and the arm knows to set down about a quarter inch in from the point it sensed. This worked for all sizes from 12 inches to 6 inches (Little Golden Records yellow 78s) at least. Interestingly, for a stack of 7 inch 45s, it would still tap the edge every time for every record in the stack. After the last record is played, it rises to sense the size and finds no record, so it knows it's done and turns the turntable off.

But I don't know for sure what mechanically makes it rise. My guess is there is a wire or a string which pulls at the arm to raise it. If it's a string, the string is stretched. If it is a wire, or string, the cam that pulls the wire is not pulling far enough - it could be a cam that just needs cleaning and lubrication. When the arm is pulled up, it is is obviously on a slip clutch, since it is always pulled enough that it would go in to find a 6 inch record, but if it is stopped at 12 inches or any other size, it "remembers" that and returns, drops the record, then sets the arm on the record about a quarter inch in from what it remembered. Looking at the mechanics from the bottom, the slip clutch may be obscuring the cam and wire or string. Or this rise driving mechanism may have an idler wheel driving it and that rubber is deteriorated and too small or slipping.

(For everyone, not Ronald particularly): I did look on youtube and found this hilarious video showing the problem (this was some kind of live video that was so hilarious he saved and posted it) - the arm is rising but not high enough, so it scratches against the bottom of the record that is next to drop, then it starts playing the record that is already there and drops a record on the arm while it is playing....you only need to see the first 5 minutes or so, the rest is about the same, and the music/records used for the testing match the problem well too.... one of the comments for the video is "That Micromatic seems to be p[....]d off at the world and I'd be concerned it would try to murder you in your sleep."


So that's a known problem for that changer design, and there's a simple fix, when you find it.

 

You have to understand a few things about consoles.

Although they were sold as a one piece turnkey piece of furniture, and were often as expensive as a good "component" {sic} hi fi system of their day, most consoles are sort of unique pieces, or one of a very tiny number of identical ones.

The console consists of the furniture, usually in a given year they would make 2 or 3 basic styles with different trim and finishes, and then there would be one of two or three different changers, one or two different RF heads (the tuner and preamp), a primary chassis with the power supply and audio power amp, and more or less stuff, maybe a open reel deck, maybe different speakers, 8 track or cassette on later units, or what have you. So you could have conceivably 3 x 2 x 3 x 2 x _ different possible models.

Ofttimes a particular configuration and model number of unit were exclusive to a certain retailer or distributor. This was to frustrate price shopping and because of the Fair Trade laws then in effect.

Also, sometimes during the life of the set, a serious repair issue might come up and service techs might switch out a complete assembly in the field. Either a refurb warranty part or something pulled from a junked or parted out console. In a few instances these were a later assembly. For instance, Zenith had a complete solid state RF chassis that could be used in (some of) the tube consoles. So you never know what you will find inside these beasts.

 

That is entertainment!

 

Most changers were made by VM in earlier years and Garrard or Dual in later ones, although others such as Collaro are found.

There were entire books written on the setup and repair of these things. It would behoove anyone trying to set one up to get the (vendor and model specific) manual and a good book. Trying to do it in the console is a recipe for failure-you need a bench with 120v (or 220-240 if in those markets) and a test amp and the usual tools plus usually a couple of special gages and so forth. Usually you can make these if you have some mechanical ability. The book usually has templates and drawings.


Even when perfectly set up, of course, the changers are by modern audiophile standards a little tough on records.

 

Yes, the records were expected to wear out, and they did! The early changers were indeed robust. Mechanical aptitude is a requirement, and working clean. Disassembly, and use of solvents for removal of all old grease is standard practice, air dried with compressed air. (well ventilated) A service manual is mandatory, never grease any lube point that should receive oil, never lube any point which should remain dry. (such as trip pawls) Other methods such as wiping down with a cloth (sleeve and roller bearings) will accelerate wear, and does a disservice to well designed machines made to last a lifetime, or two.