That is true but even with those switching amps - it really isn't conclusive beyond that particular amplifier. In other words, let's say people prefer the 2a3 in that amp and then conclude that 2a3 sounds better - then they compare that amp to a different better quality 300B amplifier that blows this amp to the weeds regardless of tube. Back in the day, I auditioned a Cary 300B and then an ANKits 300B and I was rather stunned at the difference with the latter having far better bass control and depth. It is less about the tube and more about the quality of the parts under the hood. Of course, you can buy the same kit with 2a3 so clearly there are preferences within the brands.
They really did that?? Sheesh... First look at the 2A3 spec: http://www.r-type.org/pdfs/2a3.pdf now the 300b: https://frank.pocnet.net/sheets/084/3/300B.pdf Note the plate resistances, not too far from each other, but then look at the recommended load impedance. 2500 Ohms for the 2A3 and 3000 to 4000 for the 300b. If there is a single output transformer being used here, if there was no move made to use different taps (which incidentally will affect HF response for one of the tubes if this is so) then a compromise was struck at best, or else one tube was not being shown in its best light while the other was. The mu values (amplification factor) are different as well as transconductance- how was the correct operating point obtained?? Was the 300b really only running on 300V (which is the Max for a 2A3)? Put another way: to show each tube in its best light, the B+ for the 300b should be slightly south of 400V while slightly less than 300V for the 2A3. Entirely different cathode resistors would be used (if cathode bias) which in turn dictates different cathode bypass capacitors (if used). Input capacitance is similar, but the 2A3 has more gain so does not need quite so much drive. How in the heck could anyone take all these variables and then come up with a conclusion based on such a small sample size?? This is nuts IMO. The video simply is not credible by any stretch. Its to be ignored IMO. This isn't what is called Bad Science. Its what is called 'not science'. At. All.
Ralph I would never buy an amp that wasn't optimized for one tube type or close variants also not a fan of switchable triode/UL schemes so I'm pretty much with you on this one just pointed out it was not multiple amps in play.
I think we can conclude that there really isn't any way to reliably compare the 'sound' of any of the DHTs. You can compare brands of the same tube type, but there are so many variables involved with the amplifier design itself for any given tube that doing an actual comparison is really next to impossible. At audio shows I'm often confronted with the reaction people have to the sound of the room; the conclusion is quite often that if the room sounds good, its because the speakers are good. Not really much thought into the simple fact that everything in the room has to be good. This is a similar phenomena. Whenever an amplifier does not involve feedback, every variable in the design will have an effect on the sound of the amp. This makes videos like the one we're discussing clickbait and nothing more.
Cutting through the audiophiles anal-retentive devotion to all things immaterial at the exclusion of things that actually do just isn't on, Ralph. We won't have it. It's all well and good that you have the combination of education, practical experience, skill, pragmatic knowledge and success - but when did anyone ask you to bring reason to the party? Cheers, Robert
I'm not sure if you can hear the sound difference on the three tubes. I have a WE300B copy and the 300B/N. I can hear a very big difference when I listen to my amp. The WE300B copy sounds midrangy with an excellent mid bass while the 300B/N sound very warm and has a big bottom end sound. The highs are warm. If I put a preamp tube that has brilliancy, the result is extremely flavored. The 300B/N is a mesh type and one of the best tubes you can get for that 3d sound. There is another tube that I might consider buying the months to come. According toa few members, they can sound better than the gold lion reissue. Shuguang Treasure 300B
Now with the Simply 845 from Unison Research being available, the question is again: Are 300B amps (still) the best? Review: Unison Research Simply 845 Integrated Amplifier - Twittering Machines I really like what Unison is doing. And I‘m sure it‘s a great, great amp. How do 845 amps (in general) compare to 300B amps?
Its all a matter of personal preference. I have an amp with exotic tubes and it has the combination of power and sweetness of sound. I have to admit two things. 1. The heat will always be a burden no matter what. 2. No matter how exotic the sound of the newer amp I have, I cannot compare it to the magic midrange and clarity of the 300B. I will not say one is better than the other. But there is absolutely no way I will part with the 300B The same thing with the 2A3 owners. Even if they have other killer amps, its very hard to let go. I'm not a 2A3 owner.. But I know what theyre are after for which is richness and clarity with lesser bling in sound comparing to a 300B.
If you're not fixed on Unison, try to listen to an 845 and a 211 amp for comparison. My take. Bear in mind, the whole transmitter triode SET space is a whole world unto itself. And a very addictive one, from what I've seen.
Thanks for your answers. I think I‘m more than happy with what I got. Still in the process of discovering music with it which seems to be the best possible circumstance I suppose . If I should really try a different amp one day, It‘s gonna be either a 211 amp or a 2A3 amp. But still I think 300B is a very good „compromise“ (maybe not the best word for it since it sound‘s offending in my ears ). However, since curiosity drives me, there‘s one thing I‘m curious about. Two questions: 1. How much of the the sound of my ANK 300B amp is really influenced by the 300B tube? I suppose (without being an expert) that the two 6SN7 are more responsible for the quality/tonal direction of the sound, right? 2. There‘s more or less just one tube (okay, maybe also the ELROG 300B but I suppose it‘s closer to what I have) left that I‘m interested in. The Takatsuki 300B. I do have a pair of Western Electrics 300B (current production) running in my 300B ANK amp and I really like it. However, I‘m wondering how my amp would sound if I installed Takatsiki 300B tubes? Would it noticeably change the sound? How do those 300B tubes from Takatsuki compare to the ones from Western Electrics? I keep on reading different opinions. Some say they are very, very close. Others say they are different… Any experiences with regard to my two questions? Appreciate every single answer as always!
Can't speak for the various 300B tubes but I can say that the 6SN7s influence the sound heavily, depending on the particular design of the amp of course. The 211 and 2A3 tubes are completely different animals and are going to sound different.
I'm about 24 days into using a Decware SEWE300B amplifier, the first 300B amplifier I've ever had--I've come from two decades of using Decware 6P15P/EL84 and EL34 amps. This one uses a 12AU7 as an input and 6922 as driver tubes and I probably have six dozen tubes I can roll in those positions. After two weeks of rolling as it breaks in I'm using a 6085 as input and two 6N6P as drivers. Until I can afford WE300B I'm using Sophia Electric Classic 300B and a Sophia Electric Aqua 274B as a rectifier--these two types of Sophia Electric are engineered to work together. I'm getting glorious sound. I will eventually be selling the amps I love that I used before them, Decware SE84UFO3 Monoblocks with all the top factory mods. On the Decware forum one member and the designer/builder both were very impressed with the Takatsuki 300B and felt that it was comparable and only subtler different than the WE300B.
@Ampexed Thank you! That confirms what I was assuming. The 300B will have a minor impact on sound in comparison. Thanks! @Lonson Thank you very much as well! So there‘s only a slight difference between the Takatsuki and the WE 300B. Maybe I‘ll open a a dedicated WE vs. Takatsuki thread to hear some more opinions. But I „fear“ that you are right
With most amps where the gain is, is also where the tubes will have the most sonic effect. So the differences between power tubes is usually minor in terms of sound, but reliability is a different matter!
I have a question in regards to amp power consumption. I been using 300b push-pull amp almost 3 years now and always maintain the same 700kwh. 2 months ago, I just got another 6c33c-b amp in 14 watts 'SE' mode. I just got my power bill and I notice there is a big jump and almost double. Does the 6c33c-b amp normally eats like that? I notice when I fire this new amp, its really HOT! I mean still not bad power consumption for a 4-bedroom house. I was just wondering. Thanks, CCG
It might be more accurate to compare your current power consumption with the same period in 2022 to account for seasonal influences.
IMO the garden variety of DHTs out of China are less reliable. The boutique ones is an entirely different matter! The 6C33 has an 8 Amp filament (and the socket isn't rated for that, so it will fail in due time; the Russian military replaced them whenever they replaced the tube FWIW...). So it draws a considerable amount of current when no B+ is applied and as you noted, they run really hot!! No telling if that's why your power bill is higher. But if your air conditioning is running more due to it being hotter out and greater heat in the room that might have something to do with it
Buy a Kill-A-Watt power meter and test the power consumption yourself. We really can't speculate what is going on from a distance.
Well understood now and that makes a lot of sense. Can I also get an updated socket for those tubes or you'll just recommend it better to replace it every cycle?
