I don't use pricy fuses but we did some listening tests at the audio club and the majority of folks including myself could hear a slight improvement with some equipment but not all.
My findings with most anything electrical related is that if you're replacing an inferior component with a proper (or overkill) one, you can hear improvements. Or things like if you're able to clean up dirty / fluctuating power, etc. Example: I replaced my cheapo $1.99 outlet with a Hubbell 5362, and there was a difference. But the $1.99 outlet was the weak link - I dropped a dedicated 20 amp line 5 years ago, and for some reason dropped a cheapo outlet in there. Oh well, I guess I wasn't an educated SHF member yet... But it was the weak link, and an electrical upgrade that led to an improvement. Other examples are if you're running your 400W amp with an 18 gauge cheapo cord, and you replace it with a proper 12 gauge or something similar to what it came with; and maybe perhaps if you replace an iffy fuse with a good one? So I'm a believer on electrical components if you're replacing inferior or failing things that system performance could improve.
Sure, but it's are to believe that most of the audio equipment we tested had faulty fuses, mostly newer gear.
No need to apologize, just offering my opinion. I respect your experience/opinion, and it's as simple as that.... I've just not heard it. That doesn't mean it's not possible.
Yes, I bought a preamp from him that ate itself repeatedly. He was in my Barrie Audiophile club for two years and we went to the Toronto and Area Audiophile Society inaugural meetings together. The continual line of BS got too much for the rest of us.
IMO, this is really a good thread............... ................................................................... .................for blocking someone for good. I would suggest you do the same....... Now, let's go back and enjoy our music. BTW, I am getting a Luxman 590 next Jan....finally after 8 months of waiting.
Explain. Ive owned his preamp and amp for nearly 20 years. The amp blew twice over the years, cost $50 to repair each time. Mostly it was my fault, bad old tubes. Never had a problem with the preamp. They aren't pretty.
I'm not blocking anyone over a technical or SQ opinion. I want to hear what they have to say. May not agree, but still want to consider it.
Here come the guys that have experienced the improvement of the electrical side of audio. I welcome you to a great posts
I have no problem with ppl sharing different opinions. In fact, I learned a lot from others' experiences and greatly appreciated for their inputs....but has anyone seen this movie "The Joneses"?
This thread is about fuses. I will say no more about McAlister other than it was a bad experience and it was not restricted to me. Now, back to our regular program.
I'm sure if you install a highly regarded audiophile outlet on your dedicated 20 amp line you'll notice a nice improvement. Don't look at any outlet less than $100. Any less and you are wasting your money.
Im my opinion, If you are getting into this "hobby" then you certainly DO! ALL of this is for the hobbyist. If not then its not a hobby but rather just an interest. And thats fine, for others stereos are just an appliance. And actually, $100 is not enough for the enthusiast.
You can spend or do what ever you want. Its your personal preference in your system, your own money and time. If an ordinary guy ask me how much is my stereo or guitar, I wont argue if he thinks I'm crazy when I tell him the actual price.
Note I said "need" to spend. To back that up, I bet 99.99999999% of all people in the world who plug a piece of audio equipment into a wall aren't doing so into an outlet north of $100. That might be a conservative estimate. Heck, I bet most on this forum don't have outlets north of $100... and that says it all! I got my Hubbell 5262's and 5362's for like $15 bucks a pop (got a nice discount), and do not leave me wanting anything more.
I paid 100 GBP for my Coherent double unswitched socket. Nice step up in sound quality from another UK manufacturer Furutech probably sell good US style sockets
Lots to choose from, different types of sounds, different price points - like amps or any other component. Different components respond differently, obviously. How much is a good Amp? Mine can sound better.
Yes, they do. SR are most popular from what I can see. That all start at $100us and all go up to about $300us. Coherent? Send me a link please.
I added a heavy duty outlet on mine and I even mention the story somewhere in this thread that the whole house was rewired and fuse blocked heavy duty by the previous owner so I have no motor static or fluctuation even the garage door is opening or skill-sawing. Okay ,,, But Geez....for 100 gbp, I don't have no more money for a taco bell run...
HBL 5262 & 5362 are still the best baseline receptacles IMO and do represent very good bang for the buck. They can be obtained cryogenically treated for marginally more (around $30-$35) which will further enhance their performance. Is there any "best" with receptacles? You won't convince me and I have experience with about 8-10 standard manufacturers (cryoed and uncryoed) along with Oyaide R1 (both cryoed and uncryoed) & Furutech GTX Golds (I currently use both). There are so many different audio related receptacles on the market now that all have slightly different sonic signatures, along with individual systems out there and owners with different subjective listening preferences that it is impossible in my view to suggest that there is a best. System synergy and subjective listening preferences will play a huge part. I like my Furutech GTX golds but I can also see them giving up grip over a period of time, unlike the HBL's (if you want to keep the price down) or other pricier receptacles like the Oyaide R1 and R0. Furutech pretty much cryos everything they sell (which is probably why most of their stuff sounds very good) while Oyaide does not. The Oyaide R1 and R0 still represent a huge bang for the buck around $80 off Ebay, especially if you can get them cryoed locally (might cost you about $10). They are notorious for a long break in time, however. If I buy any other receptacles, or replace my Furutechs, they will probably be R1's or R0's. A cryoed R1 or R0 at around $90-$95 represents a huge bang for the buck to me.
Don't know if they do US spec... Coherent Systems - Coherent Systems | Home Audio Specialists | Plus shipping from the UK of course