Best cd-r to burn music?

Discussion in 'Audio Hardware' started by HDOM, Aug 24, 2018.

  1. HDOM

    HDOM Well-Known Member Thread Starter

    I havet compare HP cd-r vs Fujifilm cd-r;

    And i felt the HP was Little better!

    What cd-r do you feel is the best? If possible after comparing many?
  2. Wally Swift

    Wally Swift Forum Resident

    Brooklyn New York
  3. McLover

    McLover Forum Resident

    East TN
    MAM-A Gold Archive. Burn at slower medium speeds for best results. Taiyo Yuden also great.
    Dave and classicrocker like this.
  4. slovell

    slovell Retired Mudshark

    Chesnee, SC, USA
    Never had a problem with Verbatim.
    Shak Cohen, Wngnt90, L5730 and 4 others like this.
  5. tommy-thewho

    tommy-thewho Forum Resident

    detroit, mi
    Are those CMC Pro cd's any good????
  6. atoxique

    atoxique Well-Known Member

    If you mean sound quality, they're all the same. CDs are digital so every copy is perfect (assuming you're burning lossless copies)!

    If you mean durability, well, I don't really think CD-R's are made to be really "durable" anymore. So again I'd say they're all about the same. They're super cheap so buy a few brands and find what you like the best.
    Vinny123, Shak Cohen and Robert C like this.
  7. TarnishedEars

    TarnishedEars Forum Resident

    Seattle, WA
    This. Verbatim were very decent too. I'm not sure if any of these are still being made, but I'm pretty sure that NOS supplies aren't too hard to find at this point.

    Do not buy no-name cheapies unless you only care about them working for less than a year. All of the above should still be playable for at least 15 years after burning.
  8. HDOM

    HDOM Well-Known Member Thread Starter

    any big difference is sound quality betwen these 2?
  9. harby

    harby Forum Resident

    Portland, OR, USA
    What you buy with a brand name is barely an indicator of what actual disc you will get. You buy a Memorex, Verbatim, or Maxell spindle, and you get Taiyo Yuden or CMC Magnetics with various dyes...whatever was the cheapest to source that year.

    Blank Discs Not Created Equal

    DVD Identifier will read the media identification info off the blank disc.

  10. McLover

    McLover Forum Resident

    East TN
    Yes, especially in BLER (Block Error Rate). Try burning a MAM-A Gold Archive and something lesser. And see which one plays a year or two later. The lower the BLER, the better the disc will perform, and also it does affect playback, and therefore sound. These days, when I burn a disc, for a transfer client, quality media which will last, has low error rates, and I can depend on is important. MAM-A Gold Archive, Taiyo Yuden, and Verbatim (save for ValuLife), I can depend on.
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2018
    StimpyWan likes this.
  11. I used TDK exclusively till they were no longer in the stores. I had no problem with those. I moved onto Maxell (which used to have all sorts of problems) and Memorex, and I don't have any problems with those. All of my CD-R's I've made over the past almost 15 years are fine. Now, ones from before that, that I was given (with content recorded on them), a lot of them had problems.
    Rick Bartlett and TonyCzar like this.
  12. Gaslight

    Gaslight Modern Cad

    Northeast USA
    This is the correct answer. Ten years+ back one could usually find markers on how to find a good brand of CDR via certain web sites, or sometimes looking for "Made in Japan" on the spindle case.

    But TY is now out of the game, TDK long gone now (used to also be very good quality) and if memory serves Ritek is no longer considered too reliable. I assume CMC still = crap or have they improved? I haven't tracked CDR or DVDRs in a long time now.
    TonyCzar, Grant and The FRiNgE like this.
  13. The FRiNgE

    The FRiNgE Forum Resident

    I've been lucky. All of my CD-R's dating back to 2002 open and play perfectly, Memorex, Verbatim, TDK. A few of these are dark blue, forget the type of dye, but were said to last only about 5 years. However I do collect studio CD-R promos and "one off's" that somehow make their way to thrift stores. Some of these failed on the first attempt.. but just a note to self, must to pull these to transfer to HD, "Air Supply" in particular which contains alt mixes.
  14. Bingo Bongo

    Bingo Bongo No music, no Life

    I remember the V's that had a picture of a record on them. They were cool. :righton:
    CDFanatic and TonyCzar like this.
  15. spacecoyote

    spacecoyote Astral Resident

    Florence, NJ
    I would also add Imation to the list of trusted brands.
    Michael likes this.
  16. HDOM

    HDOM Well-Known Member Thread Starter

    i guess i stick to hp cd-r is the best i have try now, i can found them sealed very cheap lest than a dollar, they are the best i have try;

    Taiyo Yuden seems to much expensive for me nowdays

    I have read that less velocity x is better because, the laser reads the cd slower so more accurated?

    ps. how is best to burn the music to the cd? using wav or iso file?
  17. The Pinhead


    The iso file is a container, the final result being WAV recorded onto the CDR. So same thing really.
    SandAndGlass and HDOM like this.
  18. HDOM

    HDOM Well-Known Member Thread Starter

    I have few iso files, then I burn it as it is! Instead of converting it to wave then.
    SandAndGlass likes this.
  19. TarnishedEars

    TarnishedEars Forum Resident

    Seattle, WA
    Big? No. But I have thought that I could heard some small differences. Frankly I always thought that the TY's sounded slightly better. But the MAM-As are supposed to last the longest.
  20. The Pinhead


    Make sure you don't record the ISO file as data or you'll end up with a coaster your CD player won't be able to read.
    HDOM likes this.
  21. Michael

    Michael I LOVE WIDE S-T-E-R-E-O!

    I have many older Imation CDRs from the 80's that are still perfect.
    The FRiNgE likes this.
  22. fuse999

    fuse999 Forum Resident

    I have used thousand's of Verbatim's and never had a problem with one of them. I also have always burned at the lowest speed possible, 1x until a few years ago, and now 4x.
  23. slovell

    slovell Retired Mudshark

    Chesnee, SC, USA
    I bought a pack of Memorex CD-R's once that froze, skipped, etc. Never again, Verbatim for me.
    HDOM likes this.
  24. harby

    harby Forum Resident

    Portland, OR, USA
    A CD is read at 1x speed by an audio transport, which spins it at 300-600 rpm depending on the radial location on the disc, to maintain a constant linear speed at the audio sample rate.

    When writing a disc, instead there is a pre-cut groove in CD-R that has a wobble that encodes a frequency for speed tracking and time code. When the laser turns on and off, the faster the disc is spinning while "burning", the less sharp this transition between virtual pits and lands in the chemically-altered photosensitive dye, although LED lasers such as used in fiber optic communication can turn on and off 1000x faster than the data rate of CD.

    There are some drives that will burn the disc at a slower linear rate, which makes the bits on the disc groove physically longer while reducing play time, which can restore digital integrity on 80 minute blanks.

    Microsoft WAV file is a container for PCM audio, it must be 16 bit 44.1kHz, or idiot-proof CD burning software might try to apply its own resampling to get it there.

    ISO is a "disc ripping" format developed by Goldenhawk CDRDAO to contain all the data that is on a disc. One advantage to an ISO, it is a complete disc image, and with authoring tools, you can assemble the audio CD completely beforehand, the audio being composed of a single 74 minute gapless file, and write your own track and pregap index location for track numbers.
    HDOM likes this.
  25. HDOM

    HDOM Well-Known Member Thread Starter

    I guess I select, burn as a cd music then!?

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