Budget Preamps?

Surface noise, clicks, and pops start with the records. After that, it's usually the cartridge and preamp. A different turntable is unlikely to fix things.

 

What about if its a weird changer model like the sl1350 where the vta is screwy for single lp playback?

 

Unlikely. You're taking about a fairly standard elliptical stylus. It can tolerate a few degrees of VTA error. So can more advanced shapes, but people tend to believe the ******** they read in hifi mags and other people just parrot it. Reality is we wouldn't be able to to play warped records or records of different thicknesses if having precise VTA 100 percent of the time was critical.

 

What specific speakers are we talking about? Please fill out your gear profile.

 

Makes sense. Probably gonna pick up an rt85 and see if i like that. Thing comes with a 2m blue anyways so hey 2 birds one stone

 

Don't expect a huge reduction in noise with that cartridge.

 

Speakers: Klipsch R-28PF Powered Floorstanding Speaker Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0763MRVRG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hD77Eb0S3R7CC

table: Used Technics sl1350

Cart: Ortofon 2M Red

Preamp: Pro-Ject Phono Box MM DC Phonograph Preamplifier,Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000YEK1AQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rF77EbH3HVK25

Hope this helps clarify!

 

The VTA situation of the 1350 is not major and would not be causing pops and clicks. It might increase the audible level of pops and clicks a tiny bit (1 or 2 db maybe) but it does not cause them. Technics sold hundreds of thousands of changers, in several models, with that basic design. I have one but not the exact 1350.

The spec on your Pro-Ject preamp is 36db gain, which already is the lowest gain used for a preamp without adjustable gain, and I don't think preamp gain is the problem.

Can you put your new Ortofon on your old turntable, and with nothing else changed, play the same records, and find out if you hear the same click and pop issue?

 

Huh clicks and pops are still there. Weird and interesting...


Maybe its how the speakers pair then?

 

Good, this eliminates the cart or the turntable from the problem.

I think that is the next thing to investigate - the powered speakers not matching well to the preamp output.
It is also possible that something is wrong with the preamp.
It is possible something is wrong with the speakers - its amp or power supply.

It is possible that the output from your preamp is too high for your speakers' amp.

A thing to try is the attenuators between the preamp and the speakers. For an inexpensive stereo (two channels) attenuator, look on the e auction site for "car volume control" which will do the same thing, is adjustable, and should be around $10 incl shipping from a US seller. Only the one knob versions, not two knobs. You can probably also find those things in the car stereo section of your auto parts store, at a higher price. I have a few of these and I have one hidden out of sight in my system, used for level matching if I change something.

With either type attenuator you will also need whatever adapter cables are needed to make the connections.

 

Cool. care to make any specific item recommendations or would anyone do just as good of a job?

 

I picked up the Pro-Ject DS2 last month and love it.

https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Ject-Pho...ect+ds2&qid=1592773466&sr=8-4#customerReviews

 

Having read this thread, partly through interest of having just bought a new deck, but also experiencing a few setup issues that led me to doubt my buying choices, so this came at just the right time!

I too use the one of the entry level Project phono boxes, namely, the Phono Box (circa £90) and this links up with a Tisbury Audio Passive preamp that then goes into a pair of AVI active speakers. The actives have their own preamp, but not enough inputs, while the Tisbury is line only, so it's a long-ish line linking turntable to speakers.

The turntable itself is a recent acquisition, and a generic super-OEM type deck, and a variant of the Hanpin DJ5500, this one branded the Eagletone One.Two, but it's pretty much the same thing. There's no USB, or onboard preamp, which suits my needs. The cartridge is an Audio Technica AT-VM95ML, so the microline version of the long running 95 series.

Microlines give you the lot. If you want a window into a recording, a microline cartridge'll give you that, warts and all. So if there's pops and clicks on a record, you'll hear them. That might not be the best option for you if you're unhappy hearing pops and clicks, so that's worth bearing in mind. I rather like the Phono Box though, despite hearing some negative comments about it, it does the job, doesn't get in the way, and good recordings shine through well enough. You can buy better no doubt, but the sound quality's pretty decent for what it is.

If your issues with your preamp lie around a defective unit, then that might get rid of your problem, and hopefully it will. If it doesn't, then ultimately, there's only *so* far different phono stages and cartridges can go in dealing with the issues in vinyl.

My own learning curve has been with adjusting and configuring VTF, with anti-skate and the tonearm counterweight. It's been quite the challenge getting everything just right, and my VTF on this deck is sitting at around 4mm, anti-skate at around 2.5, with the counterweight on 2.25. The AT cartridge has an output of 3.5mv. At one point I was ready to send the deck back thinking it was defective. Thankfully, it's still here, which is a relief!

 

Attenuators might help, but the only way to know for sure is to try them.

I tend not to like powered speakers too much, but don't know much about the ones OP has.

I do know that the new-ish Klipsch bookshelfs and floorstanders I heard at a big box store a couple years ago sounded like the typical boosted highs, borderline smiley-faced curve that you get with a lot of big box store type speakers, home theater brands, and so on. I know some of these speakers have received rave reviews from mags and YouTube shills, but I doubt I would like them based on what I heard, or the measurements I've seen.

In any case, OP is going to have to do some experimenting to figure out the problem, changing one variable at a time only.

I still think the records are a likely significant source of the problem. My experience with newer indie label records since I got back into vinyl has been wildly inconsistent, and most indie labels will use the cheapest plant they can to cut costs.

There are a number of newer startup type plants that work with some of these labels and I doubt they have their processes down or are overly concerned with quality.

Anything from older plants like United, Rainbo, Erika, or GZ is highly suspect IME. I know Rainbo closed recently but there are still TRUCKLOADS of their records at shops and distros that will be in circulation as new LPs for some time.

 

Any should be ok, they're all about the same. I really hesitate to link one in particular, and the Gorts may delete this link. To see the others available, you can search "car volume control", then on a computer choose "US Only" on the left side, or on a tablet/phone click the three line menu thing to chose "US Only". It is not a Bass Boost thing as labeled, that's just what it is called for car audio use. It is a plain variable attenuator (volume control).

This is the actual one I use in my system right now, just loose in back out of sight.

AXXESS UNIVERSAL CAR AMPLIFIER BASS RCA GAIN LEVEL AMP VOLUME CONTROL KNOB AALC | eBay

Also, I am not guaranteeing that this will solve the problem! But it is a likely thing to try between your preamp and powered speakers. And this thing could come in handy for you in the future one way or another as you add more to your system.

To add this you will probably also need a separate cable, probably a stereo RCA plug to stereo RCA plug cable. But be sure to see what connections you will need. Here is one that looks ok for the price, it does not look extremely cheaply made.

2-RCA Stereo Analog Audio Cable 2-RCA Male to Male, 5ft | eBay

I like "Monoprice Premium" for decent low-mid cost cables, but the shipping will kill you for just one cable. Like this one, the 3 ft. version would be best for this use, and the 1.5 ft. would be better if they had it in stock.
Monoprice 3ft Premium 2 RCA Plug/2 RCA Plug M/M 22AWG Cable, Black - Monoprice.com

 

The clicks and pop removal won't happen, but may I suggest a great new Parasound 200 Pre, it's just a great little pre-amp with lots of great options. It includes a fantastic DAC as well, how sweet it is!


Model NewClassic 200 Pre « Parasound

 

honestly I think I found out what it was: it's dust and dirt. No, really.

after playing a fresh LP with no issues, I flipped back to side A and noticed just a ton on new dust, particles and whatnot on the other end. Mind you i just spin cleaned this record before. Think that's when it all clicked. The mat that came stock with 1350 seems like a dust magnet and i think my best fix would probably be just a new mat.

But yet again i run into another issue! The mat is one of these weird ones with a giant center hole like so. Since i cant find any non rubber aftermarket mats with a similar center hole. I decided to get a Way Excellent mat since I can make a custom centerhole size on my order. My measurement says 16.5mm would do the trick but before pulling the trigger, I'd just like some confirmation on my calculation. Thanks!

Oh and if it helps, the mat is a SFTG135-01 model (if that means anything. found that number on the back)

 

I have the Technics SL1350. I bought a Perspex Acrylic Mat from Turntableneedles.com and it works perfectly. The thickness of the matt (on top of the supplied rubber) brings the height up to the desired level VTA. and reduces the dust. I use a Schiits Mani which has variable gain setting for my Shure V15TypeIII with the Jico SAS Stylus. Sounds great. YMMV.