Gyrodec Suspsension

I work for an Engineering Company so in other areas of industry I'm aware of how strong and durable O-Rings are which is why I wasn't put off by the design.

I took the plunge because unfortunately I had to strip the deck down to move it and even though I'm past my previous troubles with the suspension and have an understanding of the springs I didn't relish doing it again. So as I had some calipers available from work and the deck stripped down I thought why not.

I do have two questions which at this stage aren't clear to me from the instructions online.

Do I just use the standard Michell oil to 'grease' the new bearings before putting them in the towers?

Where exactly do those small black pads go?

Thank you

 

l have had my TP Pylons in for over a year and have not noticed any sag/stretch etc, just enjoyed great sounds.

 

When you disassemble the suspension posts the black pads go on top of the shaft of the lower (fixed)
part of the post. The new ball bearing sits on top of the pad and then the upper part of the post is re-installed.

In the early stage of development Pete switched from standard rubber o-rings (think they may have been nitrile
but not entirely sure) to a slightly thicker O-ring of EPDM (which is resistant to UV unlike other o-rings).

Like Tarzan, I have had these installed for quite some time with no sag/stretch. They will not interfere with the
covers. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder; I look the look of the naked suspension. Even with springs, I've
always run naked.

 

But do you use the usual oil on the new bearings?

 

Pete's Pylons are the single best upgrade that I've made to my Gyro SE. I've boxed up my old springs to protect them, but have no intentions of ever using them again.

I did stick with the original bearings, and I substituted Herbie's Grungebuster material for the sorbathane in the kit.

I actually like the look of the O-Rings, but I realize that's a personal choice.

As far as the O-Rings stretching goes, they must do it evenly. I haven't had to readjust the level of my table for quite awhile, although I did have to adjust the level a couple of times after the initial installation while they were settling in.

 

You're not going to use oil in the suspension posts. I've used nothing but I am not using the pads that True point is supplying but
rather some material that I've sourced from Herbie's Audiolab. A slightly heavier grease would be in order there; now that you've brought
it up the next time I tear the table down I'll probably try some lithium grease in that area between ball and damping material.

You're going to use the regular oil in the main bearing. I'm using Audio Origami thin oil in that position and I like it but I might also
experiment with some OW-16 (I think there is a possibility that is what the AO oil actually is but I cannot be sure) there the next time
I do an oil change. I run a Grade 3 Silicon Nitride ball in the main bearing of my Gyro-it is a different ball entirely than the one
that True Point is supplying.

33 was posting as I was typing-I'm using Grungebuster material as well in the posts!

 

@blakep - Who is this 'Tarzan' of whom you speak?

 

Haha! There's no hiding, even on the internet. It's pretty bad when you know who's who when they're using different names on different forums and you get them confused!

Kind of like trying to remember all the different passwords to various accounts lol!

 

Thanks Blake. I kept reading the term 'greasing' and wasn't sure specifically what that meant. So you basically removed the current bearing and swapped it out.

I figured I may aswell try the full upgrade if thats how it is intended i.e use the bearings and pads.

Not sure I'll change the main bearing though.

 

Yes, you just pry out the old balls and use/insert the new ones. Any grease really just holds the ball in the upper recess of
the upper half of the post. Personally, I think the damping material used on the lower half of the post that the ball then sits on
has more of an effect in changing the sound than the ball bearing in this application at least.

 

Thanks for your help! Hopefully they will be here middle of next week.

Tempted on the armboard too now....

 

The armboard is a bit pricey when you need two like me .

The suspension is probably the better value of the two and definitely the one to start with. The armboard will give
you maybe 50-60% of the improvement that the suspension will. That is not to denigrate the armboard; it's just that
the suspension change is a really massive bang for the buck.

It's also, IMO, better to do them separately as opposed to simultaneously so that you can hear what each is doing.

 

That set up is crazy! Good job.

I think the Orbe Clamp will be next month and then the armboard a month or so later.

I was going to swap the Rega arm that came with it for a Technoarm at some point. Are those seperate armboard? Isn't the Techno a modified Rega?

 

Yes, Technoarm is a modified Rega so you would be good: it would be a straight drop in on the Rega armboard. I believe True Point is only doing SME & Rega boards although they did do these Jelco boards for me so should be able to recreate them for someone
else with Jelco arms requiring a 214 mm P to S. Rega (and Technoarm) P to S or mounting distance is 222 mm.

 

Interesting to see you have two Jelcos there, did you find any difference in sound between the two?

 

It's very difficult for me to say as there are two very different cartridges on both arms: a retipped Accuphase AC2 for stereo on the 750D
and an AT 33 Mono on the SA-250. I've owned the 750D for 10 years plus now and used multiple cartridges on it-the SA 250 I only acquired
about a year ago to replace a Sumiko FT3 that sadly took a fall when I had it off the table. I bought it solely for the mono cartridge.

My gut feeling is that the 750 is probably the better arm-it is supposed to be-but there's probably not much in it if the cartridge in use is
very compatible with the arm, and the AT 33 Mono is. No fluid damping on the SA-250 and that is what makes the 750 a much more versatile
arm I think as with damping it can function very well with all but the lowest compliance designs.

I've replaced the stock Jelco headshell on both arms with Yamamoto HS4 carbon fiber headshells, which IMO are a very worthy upgrade to
the arms at a cost of around $100 U.S.

 

I thought you might have swapped cartridges in between the two to test but I do realise it is not a straight forward comparison in any way. I have a TK850s but it is not currently mounted, I need to solve a problem before I put it back. I do use different cartridges so mostly ordinary headshells change with them but I have in mind to try a Yamamoto made of wood, probably the ebony.

 

By the way, the cable coming out from under the 250 is that the phono cable? If so, do you get any humming by not having it shielded or is it the motor feed?

 

That is the motor feed. My Gyro is a pretty early model-has a serial #543 engraved in the subchassis and a manufacture date stamped on the AC motor sometime in 1981. I acquired it in 1985 but it was probably 2-3 years old then. I upgraded sometime around 2004-2005 with the new inverted main bearing, composite platter and two piece suspension posts. Papst AC motor is original.

Mk 0's and Mk 1 Gyros were all predrilled at that time for a second arm on the back left ear, along with a hole beneath the ear in the plinth for the 2nd tonearm cable to exit and another hole front left which would allow simple repositioning of the motor from back left to front left. The table was supplied with enough motor feed cable coiled in the rear position to hit the new position in the front.

My phono preamp is an Aqvox, which is a fully balanced (in and out) preamp that also features a ground lift switch (which I use) so I'm running balanced in and out of the preamp. No hum: essentially deadly quiet.

When I did add the 2nd arm a few years ago I had to modify the rear upright section of the plinth and my dust cover to prevent the rear arm and cartridge from fouling with the plinth back there and snapping cantilevers. It was a bit too tight back there for my liking, but that modification is another story.

 

That first black Gyro looks nice with the ‘upgrades’...however that second one with the lit up platter makes the Gyro look cheap imo....

 

Just been flicking through the True Point website. Out of curiosity does anyone know the ball park cost for their PSU and the Acrylic Platter? Doubt I'd ever change the platter but I always intended to get the HR PSU but reading up on the TPA PSU it's a tempting option depending on price.

I was hoping my pylons would dispatch yesterday or today but no word yet....

 

The True Point PSU is £560 l believe.

 

Quite reasonable...puts it on par with the HR.

Pylons arrived today looking forward to getting everything back together.

 

sorry i don't no the prices, as i said it is upto Charlie ,, he may do a deal if you ask, as for the psu i have one so all i can say it is the better of the 2 in my opinion , and i have both Hr and TPA ,

 

I haven't set the pylons up yet but I have checked they fit the in chassis and they do.

One thing I noticed is all the springs must be undersize slightly so they fit all decks and there is a bit of movement in the holes. The pylons slot in very snug with no movement. Good start!