Hooking up and External EQ to the Yamaha A-S1100

So, can you hook up an external EQ to the Yamaha A-S1100? Is it as simple as running the Pre Out to the EQ and the EQ back into the Main In?



Note the front has a Main Direct option for the inputs:



The manual which you can find here doesn't really go into it: A-S1100 - Downloads - Yamaha - United States

It states:

MAIN DIRECT: Selects the component connected to the MAIN IN jacks. When MAIN DIRECT is selected as the input source, the audio signals are not output at the PRE OUT, LINE 2 REC and PHONES jacks.​

And:

Do not connect a component with no volume control, such as a CD player, to the

MAIN IN jacks, as the volume level of the signals input to the MAIN IN jacks is fixed. If such equipment is connected, a sound may burst, and the unit and/or speaker may be damaged.

​

If I have Phono, Tuner, CD, Line 2, or Line 2 selected, will the EQ magically work if routed from the Pre Out to Main In?

Also, I am currently using the Pre Out for an active sub. The manual states:

Do not connect your active subwoofer to the SPEAKERS L/R CH terminal. Connect it to the PRE OUT jacks.
​

Would I have to give it up or can I use a splitter cable, one end per channel going to the EQ and one to the Sub, or is that a bad idea?

I'm thinking of giving one of these a try: miniDSP in a BOX : miniDSP 2x4 HD

Not sure if I want to convert the pure analog signal to digital and back again for LPs, but if it doesn't degrade the signal it might be worth a go. If anyone has any option on that, BTW, please let me know. I don't want to fry anything. I'm also curious if the HD is worth the upgrade over the standard for this use. There is a comparison chart below at the link.

The HD states it has:

Unbalanced analog audio inputs switchable with a jumper between 4Vrms and 2Vrms
​

While the original has:

Unbalanced analog audio inputs switchable with a jumper between 0.9Vrms and 2Vrms
​

 

I would think so.

Don't select MAIN DIRECT ...

I believe so ...

I think this would work ... except then the EQ wouldn't be affecting the sub, only the full range signal going back into the amplifier and to the main speakers.

Can't comment on this precisely (without understanding the whole shebang, which I don't have time to do!), but possibly you can use it as a room EQ for the sub AND the main speakers ...? Possibly since it has 4 outputs, there is a way to set up EQ for both. Take the PRE OUT to the inputs on the EQ. Then two of the outputs would go to the MAIN IN jacks, the other (one or) two would connect to the subwoofer. Possibly there could be active crossover/filtering in this too, like a low pass filter to the sub signal and high pass to the MAIN IN. Could take some 'load' off the MAIN IN (filter out lowest bass so there's more power available for the rest of the spectrum).

Pretty adventurous, I'd say! but could be a really interesting/good result. I use a KRK ERGO which is sort of the same thing, even EXACTLY the same thing. It sends (settable frequencies) <50Hz to the sub and >50Hz to the main amps, with Room EQ up to 500Hz applied after using a calibration microphone ... the ERGO only applies up to +/-5dB of EQ so it's pretty mild, but seems effective, I like the results.

The ERGO has 24 bit, 96kHz DACs and ADCs, that EQ you mentioned is even higher res. I can't hear any degradation in sonics due to the processing, of course YMMV etc..

PS/edit: YEP, that seems doable. Take the PRE OUT to Inputs 1 and 2 on the EQ thing, then Outputs 1 and 2 go to back to the MAIN IN jacks. Output 3 (and maybe Output 4) go to the sub.

Like shown in https://www.minidsp.com/component/content/article?id=282 and https://www.minidsp.com/images/appnotes/2x4-hd-sub/2x4-hd-sub-connections.png but with the PRE OUT analog signals going to Input 1 and 2 analog inputs.

 

Thanks! I just found this video which pretty much covers how I want to use it:



I'm currently suffering from some sibilance sensitivity with my hearing and was thinking of using the parametric EQ to help remedy it. I want to try pinpointing and cutting down specific frequencies. The treble control on the A-S1100 is too broad and isn't cutting it. I also thought it might be nice to tweak the sound on some bad recordings. That said, it's too bad no one has come out with a simple plug and play De-Esser for home stereos. I couldn't find one at least.

I will check out the KRK ERGO as well.

 

I'll watch the video ... tomorrow ! ZZZZzzzzzz ... too late for me. (OK, I'm watching it, seems like this thing IS exactly the same as the KRK ERGO, but more versatile/programmable. But can do the same thing.)

The KRK ERGO is no longer sold ... it's a 'lite' version of the Lyngdorf RoomPerfect system. Pretty cool, actually. Made for home studios etc., but it does work well for regular stereo audio of course.

 

Please take the following with a grain of salt because I'm not entirely certain, but judging from your photos an the online manual it seems the Yamaha provides no function for looping in an external EQ or processor. You need a function to select a source and then tell the amp to loop that through an external processor and back again, but it appears you can't.

If you'd loop a device between PRE OUT and MAIN DIRECT as would be anyone's first impulse, it probably wouldn't do anything because the loop would be ignored once you select a source like "CD" or "PHONO". Another thought is to loop it into the LINE2 connectors "misusing" its tape monitor function as is common practice, but it seems that it lacks a monitor setting.

The only option I see is if you have active loudspeakers. You could then put the EQ behind PRE OUT, and run the EQ's output to the loudspeakers.

But please check that, I'm judging without having seen the device, so I might misunderstand something.

 

That's what I'm worried about.

That would defeat the amp which I don't want to do. The last option might be to run the EQ/Mini DSP between the A-S1100 and the speakers. Not sure if the Mini DSP would care about an amplified signal coming in vs. the non amplified Pre Out. I'll try reaching out to them and to Yamaha.

 

You need separate pre and power amp or an integrated with a function called "monitor", as they normally appears on 70s and 80s integrated amps.

I never see that option on newer integrated amps.

Talking about digital DSP, I think the new dbx pro is better. Check it out.

dbx DriveRack PA2

 

I'll check it out. I sent a support email to Yamaha. Will see what they way. Apparently it works on some of their AV receivers: How do I hook up an equalizer to my Yamaha receiver? - Yamaha - United States

To connect an equalizer to any of the Yamaha receivers listed below, you would first connect the Line-Out (Rec Out) of your equalizer to the Main-In of your receiver. Now, connect the Line-In (Tape PB) of your equalizer to the Pre-Out of your Yamaha AV receiver, which will complete the connection.
Below are current Yamaha models that will accommodate a stereo graphic equalizer.

1. RX-797: Pre-Out/Main-In
2. RX-497: Tape Monitor
3. RX-397: Tape Monitor

NOTE: Many of our AV receivers have Parametric EQ"s built in, eliminating the need for an external EQ.​

 

What source is the EQ for? If digital audio from a computer, try software, like Equalizer APO, Foobar EQ plugins, etc.

 

Ack, yeah, seems you are correct, from the diagram and manual anyway ... oh well.

 

Just get a Schiit Loki which can be placed between the source and a regular line-level input. It seems nearly everyone who tries a Loki ends up pleased with the results.

 

A normal equalizer doesn't work well for room correction ... that's the difference, only the digital / parametric ones.

 

I have five sources. That would be way too much Schiit.

 

That wouldn't solve the wiring problem. He would have to replug the processor every time he switches sources. The brand and make of processor make no difference in that regard.

 

In addition to the switching issues that people have already described, your Pre Out is variable. A processor loop is typically fixed. (For SNR reasons, you want to be careful with this.)

The issue here seems to be that you don’t have a full function tape loop. More like “half a tape loop,” if I’m understanding how the A-S1100 is configured. You do have a record/playback split on Line 2, and that might work for inserting an outboard processor. But, processing capability would be limited to Line 2. You could also place a more elaborate switching device ahead of the A-S1100 (for a different set of compromises).

I use two miniDSP 2x4 HD units (one for R, one for L) in my system for crossover and delay. They’re situated after my preamp and before my power amps—with, as you point out, an A to D to A conversion for analog sources. (In my case, both phono and tape.) Of course this isn’t optimal. Worse, there’s a D to A to D to A conversion for digital sources, which on its face is ridiculous.

Other methods (including trying the 4x10 HD, which eliminated one D to A conversion for digital sources) were sonically inferior, however. It shouldn’t have been this way, I know—and I can’t explain it. (I can only guess, and I’ll spare you.) The point being that the 2x4 HD is very good—to the extent that I preferred it (with its extra D to A conversion) to the 4x10 HD. With that, I would be surprised if the 2x4 HD turned out to be the most signal-degrading element of your system. Either way, I don’t see a reason not to try it. Parts Express, for example, has a long and generous return policy.

Of course there’s no reason to be in love with extra digital conversions. If there were a straightforward way for me to get delay in the analog realm for driver time alignment, that’s what I’d do. So, this represents a conscious compromise—and the same might turn out to be true for you. I’d question, though, why you wouldn’t look into an analog parametric equalizer?

I didn’t try the non-HD version of the 2x4. The difference in price (and keep in mind it was double the difference for me, as I needed two units) was not significant enough. All I know of your finances is the price of the A-S1100; and with that as context, I think the purchase of a non-HD unit would qualify as penny-wise, pound-foolish.

 

I looked into that functionality on these a while ago and I believe you have it correct. The pre-out and main-in seem to be mutually exclusive for some reason.

 

Maybe a good quality source switch box. They’re out there. There’s one listed on Amazon that seems to be a clone of the no longer made Niles unit. Full Compass has some nice source switchers also. Sources into the switch box, switch box into the eq, eq into the amp.

 

My receiver is a Yamaha R-N602 which goes into the Tuner In of the A-S1100. I guess I can route everything into the R-N602 and have it run through the miniDSP into the A-S1100. The only thing I'll lose is the phono pre on the A-S1100. I have a Bellari VP 29.TTL I can use for now and I can always upgrade later.

 

Some good news regarding the R-N602 to the A-S1100. I heard back from Yamaha and they said running my components into the 602 and out to the A-S1100 bypasses everything in the 602 and maintains a pure direct signal. It's the equivalent of the Pure Direct mode on the 602 minus the amp. They did confirm the Phono Pre is better on the A-S1100 though.

I also decided to keep the signal analog and ordered a Loki. I'll run everything plugged into the 602 into it and out to the A-S1100. I'll keep the Technics going into the A-S1100 for now and will use the Pro-Ject into the 602 for anything that needs EQ'ing.