How do you lock the Technics SL-1210GR Azimuth?

It looks like KAB USA is saying the stock headshell screw is for azimuth adjustment?

 

A machinist level.

 

That's the static weight when it isn't in motion. When you lift it, the effective mass comes into play, same as when playing a record that isn't perfectly flat, so around 20grams or so on a SL-1200, depends on cartridge, headshell, VTF, etc.

 

I know but OP said he is very gentle. I assume the acceleration is minimal.

 

It may say that, but in practice it does not really work as stated several times in this thread.

 

I decided to take another look and see if I could adjust the headshell via the little screw. I removed it and noticed there indeed was a little dimple the screw rests in, so I put it back as designed. I also noticed there was only so much give as the square plastic the cables go through can't be fully rotated. I also got tired of attempting to adjust the headshell when attaching it to the tonearm. I've decided to just leave it as is and enjoy the music. The OCD is just getting in the way. That said here is a pic of what it looks like when attached per stock setup on my 1210GR. The level is on the included shell as you can see. This is how it came new from the factory.

Update: second image is the level on the same record so you can see it's the tonearm headshell azimuth that is off level and not the turntable itself.

I reached out to Technics and will see what they have to say about it.

 

I've noted in many threads that you can't assume when you tighten your headshell, the stylus is orthogonal in the groove, and the headshell is parallel. (realize also those two are mutually exclusive - and you could be parallel and still not orthogonal)

Bottom line, it's the nature of the beast, not sure what Technics will say but it's incumbent on you to work it out by some of the things mentioned earlier.

I know some that spend a lot of time getting azimuth adjustable headshells carefully aligned when their *detached* from the tonearm, not realizing it's all for naught when they hastily tighten it, and go.

It has to be checked. Even on my $4000 1200G. And most of my other TT's. It comes with the territory - and again, and oft overlooked thing for those trying to squeeze every last bit of SQ out of the microlines.

 

Do you mean checking the stylus/cantilever or the tonearm?

 

It's really off, shouldn't look like that. I would be afraid to play a record that way.

 

What I don’t understand is the mentioning that the headshell rotates over time. At least that is what I think the OP was saying. Only way that could happen is if there is no gasket on the headshell for the arm to tighten against.

 

So your head shell does have the itty bitty azimuth adjustment screw on the underside? The dimple is likely from being overtightened previously?

Some bayonet style tonearms also allow some "wiggle room" in that you can slightly twist the head shell in the tonearm socket before you tighten the collar down.

 

Yes. See above.

 

I mean I would set it level and over time it would go back to being off. See above for how it looks stock.

 

Think of how many people are running it this way w/o even knowing. I didn’t until I checked with the level.

 

The original factory headshell has an azimuth adjustment on this model. And it has a screw to adjust it. Just something you needed to know. Carry on and enjoy the music.

 

Perhaps the inherent vibration of the tonearm is sending your azimuth setting back into that dimple? Have you tried holding the head shell tight to the right (as that looks to be the direction it needs to rotate) while you're tightening the collar on the bayonet?

 

If you're not happy with the stock headshell, get something else.

 

That's not the point.

 

That's possible, but one, I shouldn't have to worry about that, two, it's how it came from the factory, and three, it's likely the same for others, but they don't know it.

If anyone has an SL-1210GR and a level, check yourself and report back. I checked with a standard horizontal type level and it's the same - it's off.

 

It actually doesn't. The screw fits into a dimple by design. It's how it comes from the factory and isn't meant to be adjusted. The screw is there so you can take it apart and change the wires.

 

I went back and did the adjustment while screwing the headshell in place and it's level now, but it just seems so unnatural. Where is the give even happening, on the headshell or the attachment on the tonearm? KABUSA advertises their concorde style headshels with "The advantage of the integrated design is that the arm wand, cartridge coils and cantilever are in alignment." How do you know w/o a level? My level won't even rest on it. I'm guessing most people just attach it and eye it assuming it's level.

 

Just my opinion, so please don't flame me, but I think it's a shame that a turntable as wonderful as the SL-1200 contains a quality bottleneck as severe as the SME headshell bayonet. If I were so serious about playing mono or 78rpm records that I needed to swap cartridges, I would either use two turntables, each with arms which do not sacrifice performance for convenience, or a two-arm turntable like the SP-10/SL-1000.

I hasten to add that I use several turntables including an SL-1200, but I don't use the stock arm. I also have a couple of SME 3009 II lying around unused, and they suffer from the same problem - uncertain or wandering azimuth. It's a feature of the bayonet. Get a better arm. My guess is that you probably would not believe how good your deck can sound with a top-notch arm. I don't know if I'm allowed to say what I use, but PM me if you would like to know.

P.S. the cartridge is always buzzing in use, so over time a torque on the headshell might cause it to rotate if there is play in the azimuth axis, as there always is. Even incorrect bias could provide enough torque to twist it by tiny increments while it is buzzing, so the cause of the twisting may not be the finger-lifter.

 

Better headshells have two alignment pins and fit more snugly and accurately into the arm sockets. They don't move either once they are locked down. After using them I will never go back to stock Technics headshells. My 2 cents.

 

This is true, but they don't allow you to adjust azimuth and you still have all of the structural compromises of the bayonet in your playback chain. When I came to designing an arm, designing out the compromises of the headshell was a priority. I have no doubt that the best-sounding headshell is no headshell.

 

False on azimuth adjustment.

Many designers are against headshells as a philosophical principle but have little objective data to back up their claims. Kinda like a lot of stuff in hifi.

Also, stealth advertising and sales is rather tasteless. We know you want to sell tonearms, but this isn't the place to spam your wares. Make your own thread or pay for ads like other vendors where they are appropriate.