How do you lock the Technics SL-1210GR Azimuth?

One other thing came to mind. My original headshell washer broke and I replaced it with a Kab one: KAB Electro Acoustics http://www.kabusa.com

Could it be possible it’s not producing enough counter pressure to keep the headshell from moving over time? Should I try using two of them to double them up? Would it hurt to try?

 

...so many people who have no idea what they’re talking about on these forums lately

 

Yeah you can try that, as long as you don’t force the locking ring.

 

OK, thanks for clarification. There are azimuth adjustable headshells, and Pat's Audio Parts has one which weighs 10 grams.

 

Which head shell is this?

 

A Jelco HS-25BR, I made a thread about it:
A great TopQ headshell: Jelco HS-25

It’s more or less a mini-review/unboxing.
Might be worth a look.

 

Earlier I said that's not the point, but you are ultimately right. I've been thinking of trying out an AT-VM95ML/H. The headshell is not adjustible, but one, it appears to be cheaper than getting the cart alone, and two, it would be interesting to see how level it is w/o adjustment. I can always pick up an adjustable headshell for the cart later if it's not level.

 

One last note for anyone new to this: when adjusting the cart, adjust it with the level on it prior to tightening the headshell, not after. In the videos I posted earlier it appears that I was doing it after. As others have said, you don't want to apply any uneccessary pressure on the tonearm itself. You only adjust and hold the headshell level when locking it tight. That said, I do wonder if I'm applying any pressure by holding it when tightening.

 

Just bear in mind that any headshell with curved sections on it is never going to be quite perfectly level depending on where you place the bubble level. You should also be checking this with the stylus on a stationary record, not hovering in mid-air with the cue lever up.

That AT HS-6 the cart/HS combo comes with is good quality, but not a top quality headshell. I don't have any problem with the HS-6 I have, but ultimately I prefer other headshells such as the LPG Zupreme 10g (OEM Jelco) or the Jelco mentioned up thread. These have top and bottom locking pins and are much higher quality than cheaper headshells. Note that you won't be able to use the plastic Tech overhang gauge with these unless you cut a slot in it for the bottom locking pin. Personally I use an accurate ruler and a razor blade to set Tech overhang so I do not care. Many of the plastic gauges are warped and not very good anyway.

 

Here's the answer: AT-LH11h Headshell, which is adjustable for azimuth, as well as stylus to headshell tail distance. It's fixed screw holes assure alignment to the Technics tracking error scheme.

 

The context of my response about non-adjustable azimuth was that patient_ot raised "better headshells with two pins" which "don't move once they are locked down", not "better headshells with azimuth adjustment mechanisms". Most two-pin headshells don't have an azimuth adjustment mechanism built in, and most headshell users have never seen one which does. That's why I stand by what I said.

Mechanisms at the headshell junction, for example to adjust length or azimuth, typically add some combination of mass, flexibility or reflection of resonance to what many view as an already compromised design.

Sadly Jelco has ceased to trade, so if you find the Jelco headshell with azimuth adjustment, grab it fast.

 

This:

Is completely different from:

Which is simply incorrect, as shown by my picture.
People actually have a choice and it’s not just Jelco that has those; Nagaoka, Tonar, LP gear, etc… make your pick.
Considering that there are nearly infinite amount of different headshell types out there, there are probably a lot more to choose from that fit the bill.

Well it’s fine to have those beliefs, just don’t try to propagate those as if they’re facts.

 

I'd check the tonearm. The bubble in the picture is way off. Even if I try to unlevel my headshell on purpose it won't get that off.

 

No it isn't. Go back and look at the context and patient_ot's comment. If he meant to reference adjustable-azimuth headshells specifically, he should have mentioned it, because they are not the norm. He didn't mention them, so my comment is perfectly understandable.

Are you able to provide any evidence that the bayonet junction doesn't compromise rigidity, adding mass and resonance? For example, couldn't the mass of the tightening collar better be applied to a stiffer structure with no bayonet? I'm not making extraordinary claims which require extraordinary evidence, I'm simply pointing out what well-established engineering principles tell us about the bayonet.

In my own experience the last time I compared a headshell arm to a non- headshell arm, the latter had clearer definition in the bass i.e. you could identify all the bass notes and their start and end points more easily, and a wider, more focussed sound stage, and it is my experience in the past that arms without headshells tend to resolve a bit more clearly. That test was by no means fair as the headshell-bayonet arm had a far better cartridge. If those experiences are anything to go by, at least they are not at odds with what engineering theory might lead you to expect, but they are no more than my own highly fallible auditory experience, a view worth what you paid for it.

 

Jelco made OEM headshells for a number of companies and suppliers. There are a still a ton of them out there and they are one of the most popular aftermarket headshell OEMs even though the company is out of business. They are also the most common double locking-pin headshell over the last several years. Azimuth adjustable headshells are also not rare if you know where to look and don't have your head buried in the sand. Not hard to find with a few minutes of searching if you know what you are doing. If someone started a thread asking about them, they would get a number of suggestions within the same day. No point in debating this.

As far as philosophical debates on tonearm construction, they are irrelevant to this thread. Most Technics users, including those in this thread, are going to be using the stock tonearm and not switching it out. Nowhere did OP mention they wanted to switch tonearms, and they certainly didn't ask for a stealth sales pitch from an obscure startup brand. Mods should really step in at this point. I would encourage others to report some of these posts so we get their attention.

 

I missed that
nice review, thanks

 

There's enough play between my Technics locking collar and headshell pin on all of my headshells to assure azimuth for the most part by just retaining the headshell in a horizontal condition, as suggested in the Operator's Manual, while tightening the headshell to tonearm. I have three Technics headshells, and two AT-LH11H headshells I interchange often and there is no issue at all in regard to azimuth.

 

If you're unable to differentiate the difference between "isn't possible" or "isn't possible in most cases", then well... there's no point trying to explain my reply.

No I am not - and you're not able to prove the opposite either, which makes it just a suspicion based on a gut feeling, a belief.
As I said:

 

About the junction and its relations with rigidity, mass and resonance, it's just a matter of trusting or distrusting the Technics engineers. If you don't trust them, buy a different turntable.

 

I use a pencil lead across my headshell, and gauge blocks either side, to judge level. My gauge blocks are simply small blocks of wood, but you could also use use folded piece of paper, as long as you can fashion an identical piece for both sides of the headshell.

The bubble levels aren't very worthwhile, IMHO.

 

The whole concept of a correct azimuth is based on the diamond/cantilever sitting vertically squared in the groove, sighting this by eye as the stylus sits on a still record (either with a mirror or a good eye) will work better than whatever you've been doing, and would be how you would check the Concorde.

You never replied as to whether you adjust your counterweight to compensate for the weight of the level - this would be an important step if you want to keep playing with the bubble level. You are setting the needle in groove with the extra weight of the level included and then when you take the level off the situation changes for the cantilever -probably not a big deal but if you think about it the weight of the vtf should be what it will be in play, not something 1 or 2 grams heavier.

This is how you lock in the azimuth that you achieve visually:

That's it.

 

I was just looking at this AT-LH11H. I found it interesting to learn that you adjust overhang with the same screw as you'd use for azimuth.
When I first saw the 2 options for mounting the cartridge to the shell I was confused. Now I understand

 

I don’t play with the level on it. I only use it to make sure it’s level and then I take it off before playing. I only check it every couple of weeks or so to see if anything has changed.

 

Those bubble levels are a red herring. Time to move on from both the bubble level and your defective headshell. Get something else and stop obsessing over this. People have given you good advice here.

 

Thanks, but I don't really agree with that. I think the bubble level is fine. I'll work it out on my end.