Interconnects and cables for tube systems?

Hi Gary,

Didn't our Professor tell us to keep it simple (and cheap) w/ interconnects & cables for the ole' Mac stuff??

I strongly agree that the ole' Mac stuff is slooow, but me thinks that's something we are gonna just have to live w/ for the life like vocals and acoustic guitars.

-Jeffrey

 

Hi Gary,

With the 240/C-20 combo, I've only used mid-level Monster cables. My thought is we are gonna trade-off by making any cable changes (some for the better, some for the worse) just like we would rolling tubes. Honestly, I'm bowing to the Prof and using his preferred tubes (though others would definitely help speed the puppies up) to achieve mid-range tonal bliss and just accepting the slooow speed. Most of the time I'm able to block out the deficiencies (speed, loose bass, etc.) and just LOVE the life-like vocals. Something like Joni Mitchell's Blue is just heaven.

-Jeffrey

 

Hi Gary,

Thanks for the advice. Know any dealers who will let me try them on loan?

-Jeffrey

 

Woo-hoo! Old McIntosh rules! My two MC30s are from the 1950s and I love 'em!

Anway, for speaker cables I originally used DIY copper which was warm and smooth. I'm currently using DNM Reson, which are faster and much more detailed. I power Magnepan 1.6QRs with my MC30s, by the way.

For interconnects, I am currently using MIT Terminator 2s. These cables somehow managed to squeeze more bass out of the MC30s and a little more top end, although the bass isn't defined better -- there's just more slow, mushy bass. I plan on trying some DNM Reson interconnects soon. I found them startingly good (for their price) on my CD player, so I think using DNM Reson throughout the system will be good.

Two tweaks I've done which made huge differences to my amps are 1) DIY rollerblocks -- they gave me more air and overhead, and 2) tube rings -- when I eliminated the microphonics from the amps, they just woke up.

I pretty much use Steve's recommended tubes for my MC30s, too. He's right on the money; the midrange is pure magic.

 

I have an all tube system and switched to the Kimber silver KCAG's with excellent results . They are less veiled and faster than the Audiotruth that I was using however they are very analytical so you really need to try them first.

 

Re: Re: Re: Interconnects and cables for tube systems?

The tube rings I bought from Galen Carol Audio -- look for "GALEN CAROL AUDIO High Temperature Silicone Tube Damper Rings (set of eight rings) Fits all small signal tubes." on the Steals page. Cheap, easy to install, and immediate results.

The DIY rollerblock thingees I did myself, after getting a bunch of ideas from audioasylum. I cut 1/4" x 1.5" square blocks of oak. To each I epoxied the bottom of a cheapo spoon (I cut off the handles. I bought the spoons for like $2 a pound and some local discount store). Then I put a smidgen of silicone on each block and stuck one to the bottom of the amp and the other to the top of my MDF shelf. Then I put a big marble between the two spoons.

It took some balancing to get them put together (and believe me, it ain't easy handling those 30lb McIntoshes), but it was well worth it, and cost me about $10 and a couple of evening's work. I put them under my MC30s and my CD player, and they made a noticeable difference.

 

Hey Gary,

No problem, I fly Translove Airways... it get's you there on time!

-Jeffrey

 

Hi Tom,

Good point!! It's the "very analytical" part that worries me about matching them w/ vintage gear that clearly has some deficiencies..... I'm not sure I want to know/hear all of them!

-Jeffrey

 

You rich guys and your McIntosh equipment make me wanna win the lottery!!! I've got an all Dynaco tube set-up running now and I know what you mean by slow, tubby bass - I'm so used to my transistor stuff and it's slammy characteristics, but once the ears adjust the bass doesn't seem so bad. My preamp has Telefunken smooth plate 12AX7's and the mids are amazing - Buddy Holly's Rave On is blasting now - my Adcom just doesn't do the mids like the Dyna does. My amps have Mullard NOS 5AR4's that helped things out compared to the Chinese tubes I got with the amps - I know that a rectifier tube shouldn't have much effect on the sound but they seem to add something; the outputs are Siemens E. German (Thanx for the tip on those, Steve) - tube rolling is more fun than replacing cables and wires!!!! I'm running Rat Shack 16 gauge wire to the speakers - the boss said that's plenty fine - probably a hell of a lot heavier duty then the good old days of 18 or 20 gauge zipcord in basic brown.

 

Maybe I'm still in the honeymoon period with my Fisher X100-B, but I don't find the bass all that "tubby" really. The big wham slam isn't quite there, but the bass is still well defined enough to sound like real music.
I will be experimenting on new cables pretty soon however, and I'll make a note of some tips here.

BTW, did any of you have any problems with CD players distorting in the pre section? A major problem with new "hot" CDs.

Dan C

 

The system I listen to most is a little SET amp (1.5 watts), a Monolithic phono stage with a 1979 DUAL 1257 tt and some 15 year old Reference 3A speakers... I prefer the MIT 2 over Transparent Link, but am still experimenting with a bunch of stuff like Wireworld Atlantis and Kimber PBJ - so the test results are not in yet.

I tend to look for used cable whenever possible, since it's a lot cheaper and already burned in....

Acoustic ZEN is supposed to be quite good - I might try that... it's fun to play around (as long as you can ship it back of you don't like it)

 

I'm not sure you can pin down any specific cables for just tube equipment, being that there's all kinds of tube equipment out there.

Same with silver vs. copper. I like the silver ICs I have now, but they were replacements for other silver ICs that were not a good match for the sound I like. On the other hand, I believe my Cardas Neutral Reference speaker wires are copper.