Power strip for my new dedicated lines?

I agree with this. I live in an old Philadelphia neighborhood, pre war rowhome, all sharing a transformer.
My Equi=Core 1800 + DeepCore does wonders for removing noise from outside (I won't call it the grid) and lowering noise from other circuits and devices in the house.

 

Line mentioned, there's a lot more to it than just that. All a dedicated circuit might bring is better current supply to a power hungry system. Some noise might be lowered, since that line isn't also powering your Fridge, or other things.

 

I'm not sure I'd buy one. If you do, please report out.

 

I understand Hospital Grade Receptacles aren't actually the Cat's Meow either. They usually have a anti-corrosion Plating on all the contacts. Sure, better than some cheap run of the mill, but I understand regular Spec Grade Outlets from Hubble are better.

 

Yes balanced power is 120/240 from the pole. The line to the audio is 120, the EquiCore splits the signal into + and - , and separates the ground.

 

That would be extremely easy to prove, and yet no tests, not even from Stereophile who has an expert in test and measurement.
Measure the wall and power strip outlet at the same time and do a differential.
If no difference, it makes no difference.
So easy

 

I bought the PS audio plugs when on sale, but they aren't being used on the power line I'm talking about.
If I get a new line pulled I'll probably get Hubble. Thanks for bringing out the point.

 

That's the benefit of a dedicated line. If the audio is on a separate leg as appliances, their noise is reduced but not eliminated. But it is possible it won't be audible.

 

Perfect! THANK YOU...No further discussion required

My wife even gave that a thumbs up

 

I just didn't want it to share a circuit with other crap from appliances etc. And now was the perfect time to do it

 

Now that is efficient use of a wall socket ...with a side order of Tetris

 

I can't think of anything that would not need its own dedicated circuit other than this.

 

This is how they bamboozle people. I saw a video that $$$ power cables are better than the ones that come with the gear.

They used an available short circuit current tester. Works like this:
Plug into wall, measure no load V, say 120
Push a button and a known load is shunted across the V, say 6 Ohm
It measures V and I across/thru load
Assume V= 117.6, I = 19.6 A
We know we have an additional 120-117.6 = 2.4 V drop from the xfmr to receptacle.
So circuit Z = 2.4/19.6 = 0.1224 Ohm
If a bolted fault I = 120/0.1224 = 980 A

He tested it at 3 points (not sure of the numbers but this will illustrate the point);
Receptacle 1000 A, circuit Z ~ 0.12 Ohm
$$$ cord 900, 0.1333 Ohm, cord 0.133 Ohm
Cheap cord 800, 0.15 Ohm, cord 0.03 Ohm

That 'proves' the cheap cord chokes the amp.
That is 96,000 VA or 48,000 W from the cheap cord.

If you don't understand this (and that is ok) you may think this actually means something.
It is meaningless in this context.
I do not like engineering being misused to sway buying decisions. It is unethical.

I share my opinions. Take them or leave them.
I'm done with this topic/thread.
If you have questions, PM, many do.

 

ZeroSurge, Brickwall or SurgeX -- accept no substitute.

 

Several months ago I went from a basic power strip to a used Isotek EVO3 Sirius:

EVO3 Sirius - IsoTek – The Power To Perform

I paid about half the retail price, so ~$400. Perhaps some will ridicule my having spent so much, but it made a noticeable difference in the noise floor, and, while I can't rule out conformation bias, other aspects of the sound produced by my stereo. Also, it made a shockingly big difference in the quality of the (DVD) video that my old, but high-end Pioneer BDP-LX91 was producing.

Perhaps there was some kind of cross-contamination in the basic strip. Would a cheap "good" strip have had the same impact as the Isotek? I dunno, but I'm happy with the result. I should add that the unit seems to be very well made.

 

You should buy two so you have a backup

 

Plug one into the other, double cleaning power.

 

Zero Surge

EMI/RFI Filter Response (50 ohm Rgen., load) Bi-directional, wave tracking
— 3 dB @ 7 kHz; 25 dB @ 100 kHz; 38 dB @ 300 kHz

 

Would that really work?

 

The Furman PST 8
-40 dB at 10 kHx
-80 at 100 kHz

estimated:
10 to 100 kHz ~ 3.25 octaves, -12 dB/oct
-28 dB at 5 kHz
- 16 at 2,500
-4 at 1,250
Flat below 1,000

for reference 30 dBV is 97% attenuated

honestly if it attenuates > 100 kHz that will get RFI

 

Lol
No difference
After the first one the RFI is essentially eliminated.
And even before the first one moot imo

 

It’s like when people say CDR copies sound better than the pressed disc they were copied from. If that was true, copy the CDR, then make a copy of that, and so on and so on - can you imagine the jump in audio quality after doing that five times?

 

Here's my point, it may not be the best on paper but I've had MOV devices with noise filtration for decades and they slowly degrade and become additive in terms of noise. If you watched that video where the guy tested his old Panamax unit the outs on that were worse than direct from the wall. I don't think they start out that bad, but whatever wears out and goes out of spec very slowly gets worse. Furman may be better, but I'm going with a non-MOV device. Now I have heard that some MOV devices now have a way of notifying the user as they become used up so you can replace. That's a good development.

 

I'll look into it.

I do know the hospital outlets still have a tenacious grip after 20 years of use. And that's with me unplugging if thunderstorms are forecast. We've had some close strikes: took the top off one of our trees 40 feet from the house, next door neighbor had a glancing hit, holes melted in their gutters and downspout! Even though fully insured, I'd rather not go through all that.