Rega P3 upgrades

Hi I can`t remember if I spoke about your static issue well it won`t be because of your P6 that`s for sure or,the Rega Neo psu I`m no electrical audio engineer but I can`t see how the Neo could put static onto your records? Maybe juuuuust maybe,you should only use your dealer to only obtain equipment from & search out anything slightly technical for yourself,salesmen are salesmen are salesmen did he try to sell you something to cure the static?....I`m joking.
Seriously DON`T fool around with your Neo psu I`d say it`s all ready being grounded in standard form so I don`t get the static thing,I`m sure someone on here will correct me!

Anyway how`s your set-up doing now do you have any more issues the good people here can help you with in the mean time,try not to rely to much on your dealer maybe post any issues you have here first........just a thought.

Cheers
-evo777

 

https://www.amazon.com/Torque-Optimum-Cartridge-Tonearm-Coupling/dp/B07NYBCLWG

The one I last used around 1996 was black and somewhat cheaper!

 

$245!!!!....damn.
Thanks but I'll manage without mind you,I did see some other torque screwdrivers on eBay that would do, I'll keep those in mind once again thanks for the link.

-evo777

 

yup I agree , I definitely will.

So yes 2 different issues, grounding the Neo would be for the weird pop sound it makes on my speakers when I turn it off (non static related), but I wont need to turn it off anymore when flipping lp's by solving the static issue.

For the static, I know for sure it has nothing to do with the turntable, just found it extremely odd how its more of an issue now than before. that doesnt matter, so basically the Funk Achromat Ill be getting will at least address the annoying static cling of the current mat when flipping the lp. and supposedly has some other benefits and traits from what I have been reading online , minor albeit. I think I will also look into getting the Milty zerostat, read the thread the other day and everyone claims that it helps with static.
Also in addition, Ill be getting the mofi sleeves this week as well.

 

Oh I see,your buying like there's no tommorow steady fella(lol).

I don't know the thickness of your new platter mat but the P6 is wool & only about 1 to 1.3mm thickness & is especially chosen by Rega for the 6 for these reasons (all to with vinyl playback)a thicker mat "could" affect v.t.a so please bare this in mind.

Like I said the Neo doesn't suffer from static issues,if you feel there is a issue it could (I'm only saying could here people!)be a short,lose connection etc.

A small friendly bit of advice, don't be in a such a hurry to buy things to try & improve something quite a few people(on here & your dealer)said was better than what you had!
Enjoy it... please.

Kind regards
-evo777

 

Evo is right. In my experience static, which is more prevalent in low humidity can be reduced by grounding the carbon brush on the spindle just before dropping the stylus.
Also, I wasted my money on the the achromat. It changed the sound, and to be perfectly honest, the rega mat, although might not look it, is a perfect mat. It doesn't harden the sound, and allows the record to be flipped while the motor still runs...

 

Ok got it, yeah it is 3mm, so it would make a difference, honestly, I havent committed it was an idea, and I fell on that idea by reading some threads online. I guess the better route to go, is not to get the Funk Achromat and get the Milty instead and see how it goes .
I see I thought it would still be flippable. got it,
for the brush I am using the Pro-ject brush, which I thought was supposed to reduce static. Can I brush, push outward on 1-2 spins then brush again go in and touch the spindle? what is a good technique?

 

A brush won't reduce static really it will take off some surface dust though. I'm not saying don't use a brush but even after wet washing records & just before playing them dry if I use a brush it won't get rid of the last bit of static as for the Milty Gun,all users & reviewers I've read have said this thing works so I'll say yes to one of them please, just looking to get one on the cheap if I can.

Don't mess with your P6's mat you'll regret it, & it just end up with you spending to correct something that wasn't broken.

-evo777

 

PS.
If you're wondering 3mm is "huge" most owners of a Rega who aren't using a Rega cart & have to raise the tonearm, only generally need a "2mm" spacer,3mm mat + arm at the same height not good bud. Some of those who say they've achieved better sound quality with such a thick mat may have,but I'd wager a bet that some have just experienced a "different" sound signature to what they previously had.

-evo777

 

Sorry, I think I use wrong wording which is pretty important, I think the term is the brush is anti-static? meaning its not going to remove or reduce static, but it shouldnt cause static either right?

Definitely going to get the milty gun and forget about the mat. 100% , I dont want to change the way it sounds or play with spacers. done deal, no mat

 

Haha ok fella well done.

-evo777

 

I don't have one of those static 'guns'. I have a few brushes, one is a wooden goats hair, but I also have a metal framed (Carbon) brush. I always use that one last, as I tap the spindle with the metal part to ground it before listening. It works...

 

Here you are people;

-evo777

 

This is interesting and remmber the your wool mat is better than Rega's felt mat:

 

the only interesting question is, I have seen some other videos stating to not use the milty while the LP is on the TT, but hold the LP in the air. Not sure if it really makes a huge difference or not.

 

Good question me too to be safe I'd say keep it away from your Cartridges.

-evo777

 

I agree, seems to be the safe way to go!

 

Cool!

How's your set-up you enjoy your status-quo?

-evo777

 

yes! Haven't spun anything recently, will need to fix the counterweight first before doing so. The only pain is waiting for break ins, phono and cartridge. Curious to see how it will all sound once broken in. Patience is key.
Im happy the way it is, as I dont want to do any tweaking or upgrades to the turntable, I want to leave it as is and enjoy. The only (and I mean maybe) future change would be the phono and thats it, big IF though. Im not planning to do any more changes, just concentrate on the collecting part.

 

Good.... good leave as it is my friend, I hope some of my NONSENSE has helped you either.

-evo 777

 

it has helped indeed, thank you!

 

Don't know why I typed "either" at the end there(doh). Maybe I was going to say something like...no, can't think sorry (lol).

-evo777

 

I'd double-check that w/ the Rega people and see what they have to say.

There is a trend now of using less and less anti-skate, it has almost gotten fashionable. But many seem to not understand or have forgotten that anti-skate serves an important purpose, to compensate for the unavoidable skating forces caused by a pivoted arm with an offset head shell.

Too little or too much anti-skating, and your stylus will be riding the left or right walls (respectively), with a resulting increase in distortion.

If you google "rega cantilever" (and look at the images), or look at used Rega cartridges on eBay, you'll often see evidence of anti-skating that was set incorrectly by virtue of a permanently deflected suspension/cantilever. When viewed from the front of the cartridge (as if mounted on an arm), a cantilever which is deflected towards the left indicates it has spent its life with too much anti-skating applied. A cantilever deflected to the right indicates too little anti-skating was used. Ideally, when playing records and when done playing and setting the arm back on the rest, you want to see your cantilever centered, just like it arrived from the factory. Do that, and you'll know that it has spent the better average of its life riding down the center of the groove, with equal pressure applied both left and right.

So when I'm starting-off with a new stylus, I adjust my anti-skating until it appears the stylus is centered in its holder. Parallax can make this a little tricky, so after playing a few album sides, I'll place the arm on the rest and then use a mirror (same one I use for azimuth adjustments) to check. With the mirror under the cartridge, I align my head so the reflection of the cartridge is aligned with the cartridge itself, and then without moving my head I glance at the reflection of the cantilever, to make sure it is straight and centered in the holder.

My arm uses hanging weights for anti-skating, and I can adjust in 1/4g increments. In my case, a 1/4g gram weight change to my anti-skating equates to only a .027g change at the stylus itself (three tenths of one gram!), and being high or low by that amount is enough to start causing the suspension/cantilever to deflect and start taking a set after playing only a few sides of albums.

The method I've outlined above is about the most precise way I know to adjust anti-skating, providing the best 3D representation while also minimizing distortion. While I do have test albums with bias testing tracks, and I've used the ungrooved portion of an album method, etc., both will only get you into the ballpark, they're good starting points but still worth refining using my method above.

 

is the mirror trick the only way to tell if the cantilever is straight? what if you bend down and look straight at it?

its harder to catch during playback I imagine?

 

The mirror works best.

Mine is a cheap mirror ripped from a makeup case I got at the dollar store.