The Hana body height is 15mm, so whatever clearance there is between body and record when setup would be added to that 15, so I'd guess around 16.5mm ...
Yeah, my comment was based on the 18mm cartridge height he indicated in his first post on this issue. The manual clearly indicates 18mm should be at 1 on the dial. Of course, that’s bound to vary, in reality, but it really should be able to adjust for an 18mm cartridge. The Hana SL is 15mm according to a quick search I just did. If that’s accurate, the crude math on it should work out to a mat 2mm thicker than stock putting it within range, if it was that simple, but it’s not. But, yeah, the reason I asked how it sounds is because, as you are suggesting, it may be fine like that, anyway.
It sounds ok but at the moment I’m using a Grado Black 3 whilst my Delos is being rebuilt and that is only 17mm.
That’s just a matter of opinions. I prefer the Achromat. It still doesn’t solve the problem I have with VTA
You're right, it is a matter of opinion as far as the mat goes. Are you using the supplied headshell?
I have been using a DH Audio headshell but when I realized I had an issue I’ve been testing with the stock one. What’s interesting about the 6mm mat is I wonder, did they set up the VTA adjustment for a 6mm mat instead of the supplied 3mm. I’m seeing about a 3mm difference.
You've got a G, haven't you? There's a screwed on lump of brass on top of the platter, which looks to add 3mm before you start adding a platter mat
I found a thread on Audiokarma with two people with the same issue as me. I just hope when Technics finally responds there’s something that can be done to fix it
If I'm not mistaken the standard cart they use is the Ortofon Concorde - the headshell is a certain size and depth that has remained the same for decades
The image isn’t great but you can see even with the height set to 18mm (16mm + 2mm shims) there is a gap at the lowest setting.
Just add another layer. I have a 3mm cork on the bottom, a 1mm Washi paper in the middle and stock mat on top.
I appreciate where you’re coming from but clearly my TT is not right. For the cost I’d expect things to be at the very least in the ball park.
A large percentage of users have the same problem. Like Patient_OT says you need to mainly worry about the sra or angle of thre cantilever to the playing surface. The azymuth can be slightly adjusted by loosening the collar and holding tight one way or the other the adjustment needed to correct it and then tightening the collar -there is enough play in that fitting to rock the HS left or right before tightening. If that does not work and you are left with cockeyed azimuth then maybe the collar fitting at the tonearm is not aligned right.
I don't think there is another thread on SH which has so many posts trying to make something out of nothing, which is saying a lot for SH. Hope you get your issues resolved.
How long have you had the turntable? If it was me, I’d exchange a $4k turntable I though was out of spec. It’s a lot of money, and you deserve satisfaction. If you did get one out of spec, chances are the replacement will be fine. Even the best products can have individual units slip through quality control.
I would guess that it's extremely difficult for the arm itself to be mounted out of spec, since we're not talking about an MDF slab that has to be drilled like so many turntables. The VTA thing is simply a quirk that has existed with 1200s forever. If the headshell was off, that could be a defect worth pursuing, but that doesn't make the whole turntable defective.
If it was out maybe 1mm I’d not be bothered but we are talking 3mm. That’s not normal in my books. If I can’t get the headshell level with a 5mm mat that says to me something is way off.
All depends on the height of the cartridge. I don't know how the tonearm would be mounted at the wrong height, other than a bad batch of tooling which seems unlikely. Here is the basic construction of your turntable: AFAIK there is only one way to mount that arm. Everything you are complaining about is a known quirk of the 1200 line going back decades. You say you have a 5mm mat. What kind? If it's made out of foam that can get compressed.
Check that Achromat for actually being flat. As far as 'level' are we talking the left and right of azimuth (the last picture you posted would suggest this) or just level with the top of the HS? Regardless, take the HS off and use the tiny grub screw to loosen the main shell from the tone arm connector IF when looking straight on from the rear the locking pin looks UN centered, if it looks straight, centered and dead on to center top then it should be correct. That grub screw on the HS is not meant for azimuth alignment but just to attach the shell to the connecting tube, the tube has an indent for that screw so it aligns properly and holds it all snug. That could be out of spec so check it and straighten as best as possible, when the locking pin is straight and for sure centered on the HS than reattach to arm and see if that does anything. If that is all correct with the locking pin is vertically straight and centered and the mat is actually flat and you still get 3mm out of correct azimuth then something is off at the arm (more than likely anyway...).