As I pointed out price is no measure of quality. You should not have to spend a few hundred $. Put it towards a cartridge. If you want warmer I don't think the AT MCs might be the answer though I would suggest to go for Shibata rather than Microline. Maybe the AT33SA but even that is not warm though less bright than the MM models. Warmer sound maybe Benz Micro Wood. Changing the head shell might help here. Ultimately brightness is determined by the recording. I only really occasionally have an issue with modern recordings. Also what are your speakers? That could determine choice of phono pre. Choice could determine warmer or brighter sound.
I might not be using the right word. The 1200G sounds less full and bodied than my 1200mk2, although much more revealing and with a much larger soundstage. So I'd like some of that body back. I'm using KEF Reference 1s as my speakers.
Ironically a good MM tends to sound more full bodied than a MC. Have you read the Thread SH started as a sticky with reference to old Shure M44 models. You could try a valve phono pre / step up transformer.
No info from the manufacturer on the phono stage built into the AVM90...at a minimum there should be specs for gain, resistance, and input capacitance as these things all affect the sound. Instead you get nothing. I wouldn't trust it personally. If you must use it for the time being, I would make sure all the A/V processing is turned off when you use the turntable.
Another couple things you can keep in the back of your mind to try if you need, after you've sorted out lowering the capacitance and upgrading what you want, are lowering the arm height and adding weight at the headshell (to increase the effective mass, not the VTF). If the VTA tower is already at zero and cannot be lowered more, you can instead add height at the headshell end by adding a mat or using a thicker mat, or adding shims between the headshell and cartridge (which also add weight). If you buy a heavier headshell (in that case I'd suggest trying a modest 10-11g first. The stock Technics is super light at 7g), most of them have a different geometry than the stock Technics headshell and make the cartridge sit higher up relative to the tonearm, which makes the tone arm slope tail up instead of what you want, tail down. In that case you'll need to add a mat, again. Both of these tweaks are a whole can of worms discussion-wise on audiophile forums, but easy to experiment with.
Of the MC carts that I have used on my 1200G, the Dynavector DV XX2 Mk2 and the Benz Micro Glider SL both added body, solidity, and texture - whilst keeping the agility and speed of MCs - which is why I selected them. Neither has that tipped-up, rising top end that MC is known for. Both are at the reasonable end of price, good matches for the arm, and easy to align (though the Benz requires CARE!) Nagaoka is a good shout for MM - especially the MP-500. Personally, I've never found the 1200G itself imparts a lean sound - but it is much less coloured than the belt drive 'tables I used previously from Clearaudio and Rega. Could it be upstream electronics and/or speakers, or just dialling in a different tonal balance via VTA with your current cart, that is where the desired change lies?
Guys, need some help from the brains trust here. I am swapping my stock 1210GAE tonearm out for a Fidelity Research FR-64S. I intend to eliminate the DIN connector that is standard to the FR-64S - i.e. tonearm cable is soldered directly to more robust interconnect cabling, so there are no contact points between phono and SME connector. Does this schema for grounding look right? Turntable on the L side of image, and phono preamp on the R side of image. Interconnect shields (in red) are connected to phono ground only, and tonearm (not TT) ground is also connected to phono ground. Or have I made a mistake somewhere?
It may sound bright if used to a coloured sound. Pretty revealing speakers here but I wouldn't call them bright. Most likely too much capacitance. I would recommend as low as 50pF or even zero if that is possible or even a lower capacitance cable.
Not sure why technics kept the pitch slider. Have to say I never use it. Yes, you are now beginning to hear what the cartridge can do, even the VM95. You may want to short term continue using the 95 until you decide what your next move is. Would suggest you visit the KABUSA site and order the Arm Resonance cap and the arm damper trough. Both are excellent values and can be easily added to the G for a nice SQ increase.
One other thought, you may want to try the EAR phonobox clone. Pretty tough to beat until you start spending over 1K USD.
I’m looking to get a 1200 of some sort soon, and I would love a souped up SL-100c/toned down SL-1200G with just the basic controls. I think for a number of people the DJ look/features are as much of a turnoff as they are a benefit.
Hypothetical If you could get this TT (US model) with a new VM750sh for $750 less than a new G alone would you consider it?
I was of the same mind, and in fact if I was going to get any Technics I was really partial to silver. Then the 1210GR went on sale for such a good price I couldn’t turn it down. The DJ look has grown on me quite a bit and I’ve also come to appreciate the black color. No regrets at all. That said, if I were buying a G, I think I would have to go silver with the 1200.
Luxman, used, but barely, <100 hours if that, all boxes, manuals, etc., but with Luxman, matters little New G
Ah so it’s more or less an open box luxman in mint condition? Because value depreciation of open box/like new is always the biggest compared to “starting with new”. It’s just like buying a new car: its value is halved once you drive it off the dealers premises. That’s why those deals on open box-like things are typically the best way to go.
I really would like them to do a 120G. Armless version as they did with the 1200 MK1 (before the DJ bits were added). The 1200 started off as a hi-fi TT and not aimed at DJs. SL120.
Same here, I actually asked it at Technics support if they would launch such a thing in the near future (back in 2018). Got an evasive response, implying that they don’t intend to do so.
Well, private seller, but never really used it in an office system. Likely could make a lower offer. I did buy my L509x open box Literally, it was sliced open, never removed, resealed, lol
Maybe I’m wrong, but it seems like the only DJ control missing compared to the 1200 is the pitch slider? It’s looks like everything else is there.