I might be missing something - but doesn't the 9271 have 25awg stranded connectors, which would make them rather thin for speaker application? I like Mogami 3103 better (12 ga). I also own the Belden 5T000UP and and 5000UE (10 and 12 ga).... not bad. It's thick though (the 3103)!
in this case the name is really a joke/ironic, so don't worry about it WBC is a cable assembler like BJC- they tell you what connectors and wire they use, it's all very straightforward and non-woo/omg exotic
Using the Amphenol ACPL at about $12 per 4-pack (though I guess they don't really quite fit)? Or do you have another favorite low cost connector that does fit the W2497?
There are a couple connectors. But, yes, with those with the cable costing $10, it's about $22. Go to Redco.com. (2497) $3.65 a foot. Note partsexpress has a connector for 8mm cables too, and there are a couple you can get optional strain relief to fit 8mm too...
Actually, checking my math it's a little under $20 per cable, so say less than $40 for the pair with Amphenol for 3 footers. Less than half the price of retail....
But the Amphenol connectors don't really fit, do they? The World's Best with the W2497 looks to use some generic locking RCA connectors. I was just curious what you professionals were using, $20 for a set doesn't give you too much flexibility in decent quality connectors Oh, I thought you were quoting for a set. I was getting ready to place my order!
The idea behind those is that there's a larger contact area between the plug and the socket, as opposed to a tiny contact point with a screw-type locking banana or the more common spring type. Not sure that matters. The Audioquest plugs are silver-plated beryllium copper, thoretically better conductivity than generic brass. I use these on the amp end of both my rigs. They're nice and snug, but I did find that they were loose in the speaker terminals of my B&W's so I switched them to spade lugs, but any looseness can be remedied by simply finding the right diameter phillips-head screwdriver or awl in your toolbox and gently spreading the business end of the plug. It's simple enough to terminate your own speaker cables. Most plugs and spades on the market do not require soldering, they use set screws. If you can handle a pair of wire strippers, you can do it yourself. Audioquest's labelling is silly. Maximum wire gauge is 11AWG.
"You professionals" You're a funny guy. I'm a complete hack with DIY on cables, but get the job done. Yes, the Amphenol AC connectors do fit, you said ACPL, not sure if you're quoting a different one. Check the archives, lots of posts / pics on it, @bever70 used the AC's too on his 2497s. If you like 2497, and with your skill set on soldering, why not give it a try. They're pretty good cables, but I know how discerning you are too! I'll just wait for you to build them, and then tell me the right way to do it...
I bought my Bedrock cable back in 2004 or thereabout, and at that time the bananas were advertised as solid silver, and I have to reason to distrust that statement, at least not going so far back in time. As to gauge, to the best of my knowledge, the size gets larger as the gauge gets smaller. Mine is 12-gauge, and I can hardly bend it. 11-gauge you could probably use for self-defense. As to spreading the bananas from the inside - it may be a good idea, will try it, but I'd rather use something soft, like maybe a Q-tip or something.
I use those (but not the silver plated), fit is abolutely great! Have to use a lot of force actually to unplug them. I would think if they are too loose something is wrong with your binding posts !
Well, the Amphenol ACPL lists cable outside diameter of 3 to 6mm, and I did see the picture from bever (pasted below), looks like he used the Amphenol APCR connectors with the cable grommets removed, I just wondered which ones fit right ...
@Davey - I see part of the disconnect on the connector (pun intended), the ACPL you quoted only goes to 7mm, we've been using the ACPR which is spec'd to 8mm. Note also you can use these - Neutrik NF2CB/2 Profi | Redco Audio they are spec'd to 7.3mm, but the optional strain relief on the bottom of the page allows use to 8mm. EDIT:we crossed posts!
@Davey Here's a photo of mine: Edit...too late I see . I bought them here (so didn't make them myself) : Mogami 2497 RCA to RCA Hi Fi Cable (Pair) w/ Gold Amphenol Connectors
@Davey - yes, working with 8mm OD wire does pose challenges. I am going to try the Neutrik Profi that I listed above to see how it works. They are a little pricier. Also, when I bought the WBC Mogami's, I did a complete clearing house on my boxes of cables, all my DIY I gave to my brother, I don't even have one to photo! My plan is to get some fresh 2497 cable in and try it again, I learned a lot the first time! I am looking for a new and better connector.... within reason for price of course.
Thanks bever, I was hoping you were online on Saturday night .... I couldn't find one to photo, I have all new / retail 2497's right now, as I gear up for Round II of my DIY.... this time done cleaner, better....
So turning the tables, what have you found that's better? I'm looking. It's either budget / cheap or astronomical expensive! What's a good middle ground?
I believe (for whatever metal/metal interface in Stereoland) in having the highest "real area of contact:apparent area of contact" ratio possible. "When two surfaces are mated to one another, actual contact only occurs at various isolated points (the asperities) called junctions. When the areas of all the junctions are summed, one obtains the real area of contact. On the other hand, the area of contact which one determines through geometrical considerations of the actual part on a macroscopic level is called the apparent area of contact. The real area of contact is usually much less than the apparent area -- sometimes a thousand or more times less [11]. Typically the real area is about 1% of the apparent area. The diameter of typical junctions has been estimated to range from 1 micrometer to 100 micrometers [12]. Considering only the real area of contact, it is the protruding asperities which will make contact with the opposing surface (and its protruding asperities). On an atomic level, because a force is being applied to push two surfaces together, bonding will occur somewhere in the junction if the two materials have compatible structures. The extent of cleanliness and other factors such as temperature and environment also play a role. This is due to the nature of atomic forces. Figure 1 shows the force versus distance between two surfaces [13] which is similar to the inter-atomic force vs. distance between two atoms [14]. Being in the trough signifies bonding and somewhere in any given junction there will be atoms which are in the trough. Thus there will almost always be some bonding between two unlubricated surfaces when an external force is applied. How much bonding occurs over a given junction depends on many things including the force applied, the compatibility of the crystal structures, material properties such as Young's modulus, how closely the two surfaces mate to one another on an atomic level and how clean the surfaces are. As two surfaces are properly cleaned the friction coefficient can become very large due to adhesion effects, sometimes even exceeding 100 [15]. This type of cleaning can involve sputtering in a vacuum chamber. If one considers two surfaces, each containing an infinite number of atoms being pressed together, statistics tells us that at some location in the interface of the two surfaces, the atoms of the opposing materials will be properly positioned and will lie in the trough of Figure 1. This creates a bond. As a tangential force is applied through sliding, the bond may break where it was formed. This does not lead to adhesive wear. If it breaks in the interior of either of the original surfaces though, adhesive wear has occurred. It will generally break in the softer of the two materials." 11. W. Glaeser, Lecture notes, Wear Fundamentals Course for Engineering, Intl. Wear of Materials Conf., ASME, 1989. 12.E. Rabinowicz, Friction and Wear of Materials, John Wiley and Sons, New York, 50, 1965. 13.J. Ferrante, J. Smith and J. Rice, Microscopic Aspects of Adhesion and Lubrication, Elsevier Science Publishing Co., New York, Tribology Series, [7], 1982. 14.W.D. Callister, Jr., Materials Science and Engineering-An Introduction, John Wiley and Sons, Inc., New York, 15, 1985. 15.Y. Kimura "Some Problems in the Adhesion Theory of Friction," Fundamentals of Tribology, eds. N.P. Suh and N. Saka, The MIT Press, Cambridge, MA, 385-391, 1980.
Ah. Thanks. I love topics that aren't debatable, flat out fact! Seriously, I love my Belden 1505F and LC-1's... in all my systems, I am down to three types of cables for analog - 1505F, LC-1 (Belden) and 2497 (Mogami). I could live with any of them. I've been using the 1505F and LC-1's for a few years, the 2497s are more of a honeymoon period right now, but honestly I could be happy with any of them.
I was thinking of using the KLE copper harmony plugs with the Mogami 2497. I can get the plugs for about $50 per set of 4. I've been wanting to try some of these minimal metal type connectors with the single point ground. WBC does offer this combo, but around $125 for the 3 ft length, so like you said, you can build them for less than half price. I want to put together some lower capacitance DIN to RCA (using W2497) and DIN to XLR (using TBD) cables for my turntables too, so this is testing the waters a bit. I haven't dabbled in the cable making business for quite a while, so in the info gathering stage now
You seem almost upset , but maybe you work for Belden, I dunno.... Let's just say cable discussions get out of hand when folks proclaim "there's only one best" That's all. Carry on.
